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I 1 -^SXJIVIIVIER RESORXS€- 



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AND ADJACENT LOCALITIES 



By J. A. VAN FLEET, M. A., 

DETHOIT, MICH. 

Author of Old and New Mackinac. 



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BUSINESS COLLEGE, 

Chamber of Commerce, Detroit, 

Has complete courses in Business, Telegraphy, 
Shorthand and Typewriting. jIt was founded and 
is conducted by the Hon. IRA M AYHE W, LL. D., 
First President of the Business Educators' As- 
sociation of America, which embraces the leading 
Teachers of Fifty Business Colleges of the United 
States and of the Canadas . 

Mayhew's University Bookkeep- 
ing and Manual of Business 
Practice^ 

With Currency anl Business Papers for use as in 
well-conducted actual business, are used in lead- 
ing Colleges that seek the best aids, and in these 
find their wants fully met. A distinguished 
journalist writes; "I would not for f! 1,000 part 
with the instruction I hare gained from the Uni- 
versity Bookkeeping alone.'' 

Pamphlet Circulars of the College, containing 
full information of its courses of study — and 
price list of its I publications — are sent on ap- 
plication to the president, 

IRA MAYHEVV, LL.D, 
Detroit, Mich. 



HOW TO REACH 

MACKINAC ISLAND. 

The only all rail route to Mackinac 
is by way of the Michigan Central 
R. R. from Chicago, Jackson or 
Detroit, and through either of those 
points from all the Southern cities. 
This line has been completed recent- 
ly and is now running two daily 
trains to Mackinac City with Wag- 
ner Sleeping and Parlor Cars attach- 
ed. Remeihber that the 

Michigan Central 

is the only railroad running trains 
through to Mackinac. 



SEND FORSAMPLES 



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09 

•a 






£ 



TREAD 1 1 READIII What people say. 
I am glad Thk Lbveb 18 dolDg well. I am 
ItB enthusiastic friend. It Is bright, rai o i 
and means baslness, and I like it and re imue 
In its prosperity. Mi ry T. Lathk ap. 
Free. 8. W. C. T. U. of Mich. 

ITCON-I 

TA 1 NS] 
1. Nu- 
merous I 
edit orl- 

klB. 

2 Marketl 
Reports. 

3. A Weekly | 
News Sum- 
mary. 

4. stories far! 
the Fireside. 

5. The International I 
Sunday-school Lesson, | 
one of the best pahUshed. 

6. Huusehold hlnts.fam- 
lly receipts, &c. t 

'. Stories for the Boys andl 
Girls. ^ 

8. Miscellaneous articles I 
fron the best writers in the | 
country. 

9. Serial articles from Hon.l 
A. B. Richmond , the Old iawyer,| 
and others. 

Thb Lbybb Is Independent In all ' 
things but neutral In nothing. It Is 
the aim of the publishers to make 
It an educator. Believi ng tt at the 
American people are a thinking peoplel 
they appeal directly to the Juagmentl 
and good sense of their readers. Their [ 
tiltlmate aim Is the BALLOT. They 



I consider Thk Lbvsb one of the very 
best temperance papers published. lu 
national circulation would do more to 
benefit the nation than a session of 
congress. GEO. W. BAIN, 

ItB outspoken declarations In fa- 
vor of temperance and the right 
ire Its best commentary. MoK- 
EAU 8. CROaBY,Lieut.Qov.Mlch. 

Thb Lbvbb Is clear, 
strong, fearless and out> 
spoken. It Is ably edit- 
ed always on the right 
side: It ought to pros- 
per and win. It should 
widely read, 
and UberaJly sup- 
orted. SAMUEL 
>ICKIE, Prof In 
Albion College. 



L: 



El 



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tkI,bvbbU the Organ of theN.C.T. U 
jr:5C^SAMPLE8 FREE!! Snbpcrlptlonsi 
**'-^* $ .50 per annum. Agents wanted. 
Liberal commissions. SplendldpremiuTing. 

Address, f^an Fleet if Jfoll,, 

266 Woodward Ave., DETROIT, MICH. 



It ought to 
be In e»ery 
family. 1 
most cordial- 
ly commend 

it. J. ESTA- 
BROOK., 

Prin. 

Nor. 

Dep't., 

Olivet 

College. 






R 



John R. Bailey, M. D., 

[Established 1854.] 




'4/c^an 




uiaeon^ 



ALSO 

iDi?.Tja-a-isT, 

MACKINAC ISLAND, MICHIGAN. 




WM CHANDLER & CO , PuWishers 
CHEBOYGAN, - - MICHIGAN. 



The best advertising medium in Northern 
Michigan. Best equipped office in this part of 
the State 

Subscription $2.00 per year. 

Job Printing Department full in every particu- 
lar. Only Steam printing house to be found in 
this section. 



SUMMER RESORTS 



-OK THE-- 







AND ADJACENT LOCALITIES. 



"Beauteous Isle! I sing of tliee, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac ; 
Thy lake-bound shores I love to see, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
From Arch Rock's height and shelving steep 
To western clitfs and Lover's Leap, 
Where memories of the lost one sleep, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac. 



Thy northern shore trod British foe, 

Mackinac, my Mackinac ; 
That day saw gallant Holmes laid low, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
Now Freedom's flag above thee waves. 
And guards the rest of fallen braves, 
Their requiem sung by Huron's waves, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac." 



By J. A. VAN FLEET, M. A. 
Author of Old and New Mackinac. 



1882. 






H.:,. As 



.^pr.A > 



LEVER PRINT. 



En .«recl According to Act of Congress in the year 1SH2, by the Author in the Office of Librarian 

or Congress at Wasliington. 



INTRODUCTORY. 




,N October 1868, 
we took up onr 
residence 
o u M ackinac 
Island . Our 

stay on the Island 

was prolonged for 

two years, and at the 

Straits during three 
years the last year being 
spent at Cheboygan. Dur- 
ing this time we became 
intensely interested not 
only in the Island but in 
the entire region of coun- 
try round about. 

Having lived in the in- 
terior portions of South- 
ern Michigan, life on 
Mackinac Island was to us 
one continuous series of 
novelties. The Island it- 
self was a novelty. Geo- 
graphically, it was to us 
interesting. Geological- 
ly it furnished ample 
scope for two years of 
study. Historically it 
seemed to us enchanted 
ground. The old Indian 
legends, though simple, 
possessed an indescribable 
fascination. We read and 
re-read them, and seemed 
to hear in the winds that 
moaned through the thick 
evergreens which cover 
some portions of the Is- 
land, the requiem of a 
race of departed braves. 

The atmosphere which 
enveloped the Island was 
different from anything 
which we had ever inhal- 
ed before. It seemed to 
possess the very spirit of 
mischief. We felt like 
climbing every tree and 
jumping every fence with- 
in reach. We were scarce- 
ly able to keep our buoy- 
ancy of spirits within 
bounds at all. We were compelled to set a double 
guard about our dignity, and even then it some- 
times got away from us. 




MAP OF MACKIXAC ISLAND. 
Battle Ground. 4. Place of Burial. 

Position of American Gun. .1. Parade Ground. 
Position of British Gun. 6. Fort Mack'nuc. 



Mission House. 
Island House. 
School House. 



The waters about the Island were novel, novel 
for their unparalleled transparency. In time of 
calm every pebble upon the bottom could be dis- 



[^ 



o 



INTRODUCTOKY. 



tinctly seen at a distance of '20 or 30 feet below 
the surface. In time of storm, however, these 
same waters were lashed into fury As one angry 
wave, black with rage, followed close upon an 
other we could but wonder that any craft could 
live upon them, yet the far-famed Mackinaw boat 
under the skillful management of some half- 
breed or Indian, rode over them with the most 
perfect ease and safety. We have heard it said 
that a Mackinaw boat, well managed, is among 
the safest crafts upon the lakes in a storm. 

The people of Mackinac Island were peculiar, 
and possibly some of them are still entitled to 
that distinction There were English, Scotch, 
Irish, French, Indians and every conceivable in- 
termixture of the same. Oftentimes the blood 
of several races flowed through the same veins 
The major part of the population, however, be- 
longed to the Irish and French departments of 
the human family. 

Religiously the people were very largely Catho- 
lics. In a population of about 900 there were 
not more than 50 adult protestants. Among these 
were Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Congregation- 
alists, Baptists, Methodists, etc., etc , and a good- 
ly number who made no profession whatever of 
piety, 'ihe diversity and intermingling of re- 
ligious views were only equalled by the diversity 
and intermingling of nationalities . 

We were amazed at some of the customs of 
the people. Sabbath- school teachers thought it 
perfectly proper to spend their evenings in the 
saloons . None of them drank, so far as we could 
learn, but most of them kept company with 
drinkers and gamblers and thought nothing of it. 
We knew of more instances than one where in- 
dividuals indulged in the dance all night on 
Wednesday night and attended prayer-meeting 
and took an active part on Thursday night This 
to us was bringing the Lord and the devil entire- 
ly too near together. 

We shall never forget a very amusing circum- 
stance which occurred one morning at church. 
A saloon-keeper, who, by the way, was quite de- 
vout and regular in his attendance at church, 
always stood during prayer time, and was the 
only one in the audience who did. He would 
always rise to his feet, turn his back to the min- 
ister, put his right foot upon the seat, his right 
elbow upon his knee and rest his head upon his 
right hand, most devoutly during the prayer. On 
the morning in question, he happened to be late, 
coming in during the singing of the second 
hymn. Not thinking that he was so late, but 
supposing that the first instead of the second 
hymn was being sung, he promptly put himself 
into position at the close of the singing for 
the prayer. The minister arose to announce his 
text but stopped to take a good look at the sa- 
loon-keeper's back. The congregation almost 
stopped breathing, so intense was the effort to re- 
press a big ha, ha. The saloon keeper waited 
about a minute for the prayer to begin then looked 
round, discovered his mistake, sat down confus- 
edly and the minister gathered himself up as best 
he could and went on with his discourse. 

It has been generally supposed that Mackinac 
is desirable as a place of residence in the summer 



time only. This is a mistake Mackinac win- 
ters are as grand as Mackinac summers, at least 
so far as climate is concerned. The average cold 
is greater, but the extreme is less than in cities 
further south as the following table will abund- 
antly prove: 






sjBaAJO "ON I 

••paoBjqraa I 

8uiii Saunp isaqSiul 

S3ni8i}xa jsaAvoii 

■••8SBJ3AV .i!tJB3i' 

wqraaaaQi 

jaqraoAO^il 

.taqopQi 

jaqcuaidagl 

Aitfi 

aatif I 

jfBj^l 

liJi^Vi 

qojBI^I 

iaeaaqa^jl 
•jCipnuBf j 






■ ai^-z>Z}^ 



• CM — ■ ^- CO CM 









-^CMa::ccoao-<1<-HC^J — 
coroco«onc^»-.}'-^m*^ 



'O .C CTj CM Oi X) -^ -o t^ .o 
■«t* "^ ■«?' '^ -^ "t* .O'O "^ "^ 



.o - o :g -jD ' X^ Xi CD c: ^' -o ^ 
■^:oo-o3:j:ococc.Dt>- 
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• OOCMCO..— O'0-?J<COC75 



) -.O :0 C^ X» '.O X> t^ X) C"^ 



cocoocM-.o:oo^^Ha^co 
•^ 'O X" "X: -o 'O -o -D -o X" 



Cf^ -^ ■<^ O -^ --^ 'O lO -^ >o 



CM'>icocororc-<^-^CTO-^ 



— ■ --CMCMCvJ CM TO CO ^H CO 



c%-.^-^05-,*<r^cv»o-^co 

— <.rHCv» — CMCMCOC- 







i3CjSc8o3'^=a° 



The finest January that we ever saw was a 
Mackinac January. This was during our first 
winter upon the Island. A man could work in 
his shirt sleeves with comfort during almost any 
day in the month, yet the snow scarcely melted 
from the roofs of the houses during the^-entire 
winter. 

Mackinac 14 years ago, however, was vastly 
different from what it is to-day, both in winter 
and summer. The nearest railroad station at that 
time was at Big Kapida, over 200 miles away. 
There was not even the semblance of a wagon 
road over a part of this distance. This being the 
case, Mackinac people seldom went "outside" 
during the winter season. 

At that time the United States mail for Macki- 
nac was brought in winter time from Bay City to 
Alpena by stage, from Alpena to Cheboygan, a 
journey of 90 miles taking three days of time by 
dog train, and from Cheboygan to Mackinac 
Island across the straits by boat, or on the ice, 
as the case might be. It took eight days to get 
mail from Detroit to Mackinac under the most 
favorable circumstances. Sometimes it took much 
longer than that. Between Bay City and Alpena 
were some extensive swamps which sometimes 
did not freeze over for weeks after the close of 
navigation. In such cases the mails were often 
delayed much longer than eight days. 

Delay was sometimes caused in getting acrosa 
the straits also. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



During our first winter on Mackinac 
Island we were three weeks, and very 
long weeks at that, without any intelli- 
gence from the outside world. We well 
remember how anxiously we awaited the 
first overland mail. Opera glasses were 
daily pointed across the straits Cheboy- 
ganward in search of some approaching 
mail carrier. Finally, some one, more 
enterprising in the use of his opera glass 
than his neighbors, discovered some- 
thing on the ice some 1.") miles away to- 
ward Cheboygan which might possibly 
be a mail carrier. The news wert 
through the town like wildfire and in > 
twenty minutes half the people on the oo 
Island were in the streets. The some- w 
thing was certainly approaching the Is- § 
land. Within an hour it resolved itself o 
into an Indian pony, a sleigh and a man, ''' 
and everybody was fully convinced that ^ 
the mail was actually coming. One fact, * 
however, caused a good deal of anxiety. ^ 
While the south channel between Bois > 
Blanc and the mainland was frozen over a 
there was no ice about the Island and o 
grave fears were entertained for the safe- '^ 
tyofthe approaching carrier. On and ^ 
on he came, however, as if regardless of § 
danger and more and more intense be- g 
came the excitement among the people . g 
When within a short distance of the m 
open waters he turned his course, land- p 
ed on Bois Blanc Island and came across a 
in a boat very much to the relief of every- ^ 
body. 

nDuring our second winter on Mackinac 
Island we were seven weeks without a 
mail. The great difficulty in this case 
was in the fact that the straits were con- 
stantly full of floating ice yet did not 
freeze over until about the 30th of Feb- 
ruary . This time the waiting was much 
more tedious than before.in short patience 
ceased entirely to be a virtue. Before the 
seven weeks came to an end the M acki- 
nawians just about concluded that they 
could live without the rest of the world, 
it the rest of the world could live with- 
out them. The spell was broken this time 
by two half-breeds who for a liberal sum of money 
performed the perilous feat of crossing the straits 
and bringing the mail over. 




Indians sometimes crossed on newly frozen ice, 
which was so thin that they could not stand upon 
it at all, by lying lengthwise upon a board or 
Crossing the straits in winter time was perilous dog sleigh and being drawn over by their dogs, 
under the most favorable circumstances. No one If the crossing was to be made on foot at a time 
ever knew at just what moment he might set foot when the ice was not thought to be reliable two 
on some treacherous piece of ice which would let men always went together. Taking a firm hold 
him down into the water. Many a poor fellow of the opposite ends of a long rope they proceed- 
has thus found a watery grave when he least ex- ed on their journey. If one broke through the 
pected it. The Indians and half-breeds, how- other pulled him out. if the other broke through 
ever, were always ready to attempt a crossing, no the one pulled him out, and if both broke through 
matter how perilous such an attempt might be. together they pulled each other out and proceeded 
If the crossing was to be made with a horse they on their journey. To us this seemed a very 
were always armed with an ax and a rope. If practical illustration of the "you help me and I 
the horse broke through the rope was at once will help you"' principle. We never felt strong- 
placed about his neck and he was choked until he ly inclined however, to make any practical ex- 
bloated and lay upon the surface of the water like porinients in this direction. 
a pnff-ball, when he was easily drawn out . The If Mackinac is famous for anything in winter. 



6 



INTRODUUTOKY. 



it is for the very frequent and brilliant Aurora 
Borealis or northern lights which are seen in that 
locality. We cannot hope to give our readers 
any adequate description of this grand phenome- 
non We have seen the whole northern heavens 
from the east around to the west and from the 
horizon to the zenith and oftentimes several de- 
grees southward from the zenith in one immense 
blaze with these atmospheric fireworks. The 
beauty of the display is largely in the endless 
variety of lights and shades that chase each other 
through the heavens. At one moment your at- 
tention is attracted to a display of special brillian- 
cy on the right. You turn to look upon it but have 
scarcely more than time to ejaculate your aston- 
ishment before the bright colors have all faded 
and your attention is as earnestly called to some 
similar display on the left which in turn fades as 
quickly away. The whole northern heavens seem 
converted for the time being into one immense 
kaleidoscope. Displays alike in kind and quality 
are sometimes seen in more southern latitudes 
but for frequency and brilliancy they bear no 
comparison that is worthy the name. 

The pastimes of a Mackinac winter were as 
varied as the circumstances would permit. It is 
needless to say that the Mackinac people never 
indulged in lectures, concerts, theatres or any- 
thing of the kind in winter time. From the close 
of navigation in the fall till the arrival of the first 
boat in the spring, the foot of a stranger seldom 
trod the streets of the village. 

Among the younger portion of the population, 
coasting, skating, driving on the ice, etc., were 
popular. We have seen almost the entire popu- 
lation of the Island out on the bay together with 
sleighs, ice-boats, skates, etc., having the jolliest 
kind of a time. Good skating, however, was not 
always abundant from the fact that the ice in the 
straits was almost always rough. So great is the 
current back and forth through the straits, and so 
boisterous are the winds of that locality that any 
iee formed during a calm is sure to be broken up 
within a day or two. The straits never close over 
permanently until the floating ice which has been 
formed in the bayous and narrow places and 
broken up by the winds is driven into the straits 
in large quantities and firmly cemented by a few 
days of vigorous freezing. If the winds are very 
violent when this drift ice is finally driven into 
the straits and wedged fast the ice is left in very 
bad condition for crossing. Huge cakes of ice 
will sometimes be driven up from ten to twenty 
feet above the water level and remain so all win- 
ter. Owing to these causes the skating is rarely 
good or rather there is rarely any skating at all. 
Occasionally, however, when the bay freezes over 
in a calm there is for a day or two the grandest 
skating in the world, and no community ever 
knew better how to improve it than the Macki- 
nacians. 

An instance is related of the narrow escape of 
a Mackinac skating party which almost makes 
the blood run cold. It was in spring time The 
old ice was aU out of the bay. During a very 
cold night when an absolute calm chanced tc pre- 
vail the bay was frozen over The ice was clear 
as crystal and smoother than polished marble. 



You could count the very pebbles on the bottom 
30 feet below you. Of course such an opportun- 
ity was not to be lost Early in the day a large 
party of ladies and gentlemen was gliding hither 
and yonder over the bay with lightning like 
rapidity. The sport continued until noontime 
when all hands went home to dinner intending 
to return within an hour. Judge of the feelings 
of surprise mingled with horror which the party 
experienced when on returning to the beach it 
was found that the ice had entirely disappeared 
A little wind had caused sufficient "troubling of 
the waters" to break the ice in pieces, and the 
current had carried it so far out into Lake Huron 
that it was invisible to the naked eye in the short 
space of one hour. 

As we have before stated Mackinac winters are 
very fine We must, however, except an occa- 
sional storm from the list of fine things . We 
used to sing, "We'll face the storm, it won't be 
long " Our stay in Mackinac taught us, how- 
ever, that some storms could not be faced A 
storm of snow and sleet from the south-east, ac- 
companied by a heavy wind, was more than the 
most courageous could face for any length of 
time. No roof made ©f shingles was of much 
avail against the severity of these storms. For- 
tunately, however, they were not of frequent oc- 
currence or of long duration. 

The fogs which sometinaes envelop the Macki- 
naw region during early summer are worthy of 
mention. They are sometimes so dense that you 
can scarcely see an arms length before you. A pro- 
peller sometimes gets so near to the dock that the 
captain can carry on a conversation in an ordi- 
nary tone of voice with those on the dock before 
he can see the dock, and before those on the dock 
can see the boat. Growing out of the fog 
question is a statement which to us always seem- 
ed marvelous, and that is that there are boat cap- 
tains on the lakes who are so thoroughly masters 
of the situation which they hold that they can 
run from Chicago to Mackinac Island or any 
other regular port on their respective routes dur- 
ing the densest fog without any loss of time and 
without any danger of getting out of their course 
or failing to bring their boats into the harbor in 
good style. 

During a series of 22 years the average open- 
ing of the straits in spring was on April 20. The 
earliest opening during this time was on April 3. 
This occurred in 1870 and in 1871. The latest 
opening was on May 6. This occurred in 1875. 

At the time of which we write Mackinac Island 
had almost entirely lost the prestige it had once 
enjoyed as a business centre. The palmiest 
days of the Island from a purely business stand- 
point were from 40 to 50 years ago At that time 
the Michigan Central Railroad had not been com- 
pleted to Chicago, and almost the entire tide of 
emigration westward flowed through the straits 
of Mackinaw. This gave to Mackinac merchants 
an immense advantage. As the Island was the 
half way point between Detroit and Chicago all 
the boats stopped at her docks. Hundreds and 
thousands of cords of wood were sold to these 
boats every year, and the merchants were alwaya 
well supplied with everything needed by the 



INTKOUUCT()I5V 




RESIDENCE OF COL..IOHN R. BAILEY, POST SURr,EON, KJRT MACKINAC. MICH. 



thousands of emigrants who were passengers 
npon them. The merchants always kept a sharp 
lookout for the boats and were always ready to 
drive a brisk trade while they remained at the 
docks. A man was hired to keep watch dur- 
ing the night. As soon as the headlight of a pro- 
peller was visible every merchant in town was 
aroused, and by the time the boat reached the 
docks every store in the place was brilliantly 
lighted up, and every clerk was at his place be- 
hind the counter, smiling a most gracious smile, 
and ready for business. Oftentimes the mer- 
chants of the Island took several hundred dollars 
apiece from some boat load of hungry emigrants 
at the dead hour of the night. 

In speaking of Mackinac as a busines.s centre. 
a Mormon writer, whose work appeared in 1844 
says : 

friHian lA/hicl/'au The most profitable, and, at 
IllUlall wVillOlVCy. the same time, the most 
minous trade Alackinac ever had is that in VVhiskej'. 
Indian Whiskey is made by putting; two gallons of com- 
mon Whiskey, or unrectified spirits, to tliirty gallons of 
water, and adding red jjcpix-r enough to make it fiery, 
and tobacco enough to make it intoxicating. Its cost is 
not above five cents per gallon. — Thousand.s of barrels 
have been sold every year, the prices generally being fifty 
cents a quart by the bottle, and six cents a drink. 

More than half the fish taken by the Indians for thirty 
years have been paid for in this article, and more than 
half the annuities they have received from the United 
States have been laid out in the purchase of it. The most 
wealthy and respectable traders have not been ashamed 
to deal in it. The outlaws and felons who found a hid- 
ing place in the country, were seldom without a supply 
of it; and being the instruments of wealthy traders in 
disposing of it; necame in some degre« necessary to their 
success in business, and thus secured their protection. 
By their means the horrors produced by this trade were 
kept out of Mackinac until the place became filled with 
an unprincipled class of small traders, who had as little 
regard to appearances as their more wealthy competitore 
had no integrity . 



Tho PichpripC '^he fisheries of 
■ lie I lollCl iCOa inac were, to so 



Michilimack- 
some extent, a 
source of subsistence to the Indians, before the country 
was visited by Europeans. The Indians only fished oa 
the shores, in the streams and in the shallow inland 
Lakes. The first Frenchman in this country introduced 
the French modes of fishing, by which the fish were pur- 
sued to the deep waters, and thus a supply was obtained 
all the year. 

As early as 1824, small quantities of Whiteflsh and 
Trout began to be sent to Bufialo tor market. In the 
space of thirty years this branch of trade has increased 
from two thousand barrels to two hundred and fifty thou- 
sand, of these it is supposed one half are taken in what 
were formerly known as the Mackinac fisheries, extend- 
ing from Death's Door to Middle Channel. Formerly 
these were all taken to Mackinac, where they were re- 
packed and sent to market. The merchants at Mackinac 
turnished the fishermen, and purchased all their fish, and 
the entire profits of the business accrued to them. 

The fishermen, until within a few years, were all In- 
dians and Frenchmen, who lived in a state of barl>arism 
and misery, and were almost, and in some instances 
quite slaves to the traders. Their summers were spent 
in wigwams of the worst kind on the lake shores, nearly 
destitute of clothing, and not unfrccniently reduced to 
subsist on fish alone for weeks. The traders so conduct- 
ed their business that the fishermen were generally in 
debt. But if by any means one had a continual run of 
good success and got a little capital at cmnmand, he waa 
induced to lay it out in whi?key . and return to the fish- 
ing grounds, where, with all hi.s cinnpanious, he remain- 
ed drunk till the supply was gone. 

Gradually a few Americans and Irish went on to the 
fisheries. Some of these took with them small stocks for 
trade, and divided their time between tr.irliug and fishing. 
As these received tht-ir outfits from and sold their fish at 
Mackinac, it did not matirially change tlie course of trade. 
But, taking the supply of intoxicating liquors more among; 
the Indians, made their use nmre lonimon and fatal. 
But these were men bred to civilization, who had gone 
among savages t^) get beyond the restraints of the law. 
They were the worst class of men scattered among the 
most inott'ensive and defenceless — and it is needless to 
say they let slip no opportunity of plundering them. 

Numbers of them are known who boast of the amouulB 

they have made by taking fish out of the open tiarrels of 

the Indians from night to night and placing them in 

their own. Un a fishery where a dozen Indians were 

' engaged, they were ofteu plundered in this way to the 



INTRODUCTORY. 



amount of one hundred barrels in a season. Since the 
Sauk and Pox war the Indians did not dare resent these 
or greater outrages, when discovered. 

As a natural consequence, a set of outlaws and felons 
were scattered through the country, and found on all the 
fisheries, hated and feared, and living in security on 
plunder. The control of the fishing business gradually 
fell into the hands of this class of men, the merchants of 
Mackinac being their factors. These intermediates were 
no less formidable by their crimes than their numbers, 
and their intimate connection with the Indians and 
mixed French and Indian. Over them they obtained all 
the influence of dependence and fear, strengthened by 
intimate association. In the hands of such men, the 
most productive inland fisheries in the world afforded 
only a miserable and uncertain subsistence to the fisher- 
men, even through the summer. 

In winter the Indian fishermen retired to the various 
Indian towns, and the French to Mackinac. The Indi- 
ans procured a precarious subsistence by hunting, and 
the French did such labor as they could get to do for 
their board . That failing, they took what fish they could 
for food through the ice, and when reduced to starvation, 
as more or less were every winter, they feU back on the 
traders for support, who furnished them on credit. On 
these debts they were frequently sold, of which mention 
is made hereafter. 

Since 1843 merchants and traders have established 
themselves at other stations, more convenient to the 
fisheries than Mackinac. Most of the fishermen had 
their outfits of provisions, barrels of salt, and many were 
in debt also for boats, nets, and the balances on their 
winter's support at Mackinac. But the interlopers or 
traders at other stations, who made them no advances, 
carried on a trade ruinous to the Mackinac merchants, 
by purchasing the fish put up in their barrels and salt. 
and caught by men provisioned and furnished by thera. 
Such were the habits of dissipation prevailing on the fish- 
ing grounds, that these frauds left the fishermen worse 
offat the close of every season ; for they were destitute 
of credit, and dare not return to Mackinac. 

This threw them more into the hands of the felons and 
outlaws, who infested the region. The losses incurred 
by these means have ruined several wealthy traders at 
Mackinac. With these losses, fishing trade is passing to 
other places, fast growing up, more convenient to the 
fisheries. 

The new class ot fishermen are persons of limited 
means, temperate habits, good morals, and persevering 
industry, from the best sections of the Northern States 
and Canada, who have come into the country to make it 
a permanent residence. They either make farms, or 
establish mechanic shops, in which they engage in pro- 
ductive labor.s, when not employed in fishing, and con- 
duct their business as in the best regulated civilized 
societies. Their fishing is resorted to, not from neces- 
sity, but as a source of profit, and only pursued while 
more productive than other business. 

Traders cannot make ys much profit off this class of 
customers, but they take more fish with less labor, and, 
husbanding their means, ars accumulating property, and 
rapidly improving the country. By these means more 
than half the trade of Mackinac has been transferred to 
Washington Harbor, St. James, St. John, St. Helena, 
Duncan, Detour, and divers other places; and as every 
part of the fisheries is more accessible to some of these 
places than to Mackinac, the trade of Mackinac in fish 
must soon cease. 

Indian Paumon+C '^^^ payment of Indian 
IllUlali rayillCllLO. annuities at Mackinac 
began a little subsequent to the war of 1812, and wiU con- 
tinue till 1856, when the last expires. They have some- 
times amounted to as much as $100,OUO a year, but are 
now only $20,000 or $30,000. 

The practice is to send word to the several bands some 
weeks before the payment is to take place, and call them 
in. While waitinir for the arrival of the agent they ex- 
pend all their means, sutt'er much of hunger, and usually 
obtain considerable supplies on credit, for which they 
are charged two or three prices. As soon as the payment 
is made the Indians have a Saturnalia, outvieing the car- 
nival in the darkest places of Paris or Naples, which 
usually lasts till their money is expended ai.d their provis- 
ions either eaten up or exchanged for whiskey and 
drink; when, on the first favorable wind, they strike 
their encampment, launch their boats, and return home 
poorer than when they left. 

Formerly the money was paid to each chief for his 
band. Before going to get drunk the chiefs depositCfj 



most of the money, uncounted, with some trusty white 
man, usually the trader with whom he dealt, only keeping 
what amount he wished to drink up. The banker in 
these cases paid himself whatever he had advanced to 
the Indians before receiving their annuities, and such 
commission as he thought proper for the safe-keeping of 
the money. Allowing these bankers to tell their own 
story, the commission was oftener above than below 
twenty-five per cent. The Indians were not able to 
count the money, and at the end of the Saturnalia, ill- 
qualified to judge whether well or ill dealt by. 

As a few large traders monopolized this business, and 
acted in concert, they thus secured a settlement of all 
balances against the Indians, in cash, once every year, 
and besides plunder outright, two or three hundred per 
cent, profit on every article sold. 

This state of things was unendurable to the class of 
small traders, who had no share in it; and they procured 
such a change of the law that the annuities were paid to 
the head of every family, instead of the chiefs of the 
bands. By this means all had a chance at the plunder, 
and measures still more scandalous were resorted to 
to obtain it. 

Some of the Indians, as soon as they receive their an- 
nuities, hand the money to their wives for safe keeping. 
The squaw immediately divided it into several sums, 
each of which is appropriated to a particular use, and the 
last she gives to her husband to get drunk on. In these 
cases, though the husband frequently returns for more 
money, and sometimes beats his wife to compel her to 
give him his money, it is generally securely guarded, and 
faithuflly appropriated, according to the original inten- 
tion. 

Notwithstanding a considerable number of cases of 
this kind, the annuities are a curse to the Indians. Take 
all the bands together, and they return home with less 
means than they set out with, and on an average they 
are from home six weeks, at a season of the year when 
fishing is good, and potatoes and corn require harvest- 
ing. Not a few have lost their lives returning home in 
boisterous weather, and weakened by intoxication. 

During our first summer on Mackinac Island 
we formed the resolution to prepare a history and 
description of the straits for publication. We 
were prompted to this by the constant inquiry on 
the part of visitors to the Island for some work 
of the kind. We had little idea of the task 
before us when we formed the resolution 

The straits of Mackinaw have always been the 
theatre of interesting and exciting events. While 
the whole southern portion of the state was a 
wilderness which no white man had ever pene- 
trated, Mackinac was the home of the missionary, 
the trader, the soldier, and the center of a valua- 
ble and fast increasing traffic with the Indians of 
the northwest. It was from Mackinac, as a center, 
that colonization spread through the surrounding 
country. Detroit was settled in 1701 by Cadillac 
who for several years had commanded at Mackinac. 
The history of Wisconsin and Minnesota as well 
as other northwestern states, must begin with a 
notice of this point because the earliest settlers 
of those states started out from Mackinac. The 
time is yet within the memory of persons now 
living on Mackinac Island when even the great 
Chicago came to Mackinac for her supplies 

These facts are significant. The early Jesuits 
and traders fixed upon Mackinaw as a basis of 
their missionary and commercial operations, not 
by mere chance, but because of its natural advan- 
tages. Mackinac is a historical center because 
it is a geographical center. Nature alone gave it 
its advantages and made it what it has been in 
history. 

For a series of years the natural advantages of 
Mackinac seemed to be overlooked and the surg- 
ing wave of population rolled across southern 
Michigan and so on to the westward. At the 



inti;odt'ctoi;y 




present time, however, this region is rapidly 
rising into favor, owing to the fact that it is 
becoming better known and better appreciated. 

We began the preparation of our little book 
early in the faU of 1869 . Fortvmately for the en- | 
terprise, the late Edgar Conklin, then^propnetor | 
of Mackinaw City, took up his residence on the i 



straits it about that time. In 1853 .Mr. Conklin, 
then of Cincinnati, had secured a large tract of 
land on the south side of the straits. At a later 
date large additions had been made io this prop- 
erty, so that at the time of which we write he 
controlled about ;!o,(»00acies of land on the straits, 
about 7,000 of which was on the north side. He 



10 



INTRODUCTORY. 



owned about 25 miles of the coast. In 57-'58 he 
had surveyed a city cite after the most improved 
plan with streets 80 and avenues 150 feet wide, 
with liberal reservations for parks, public build- 
ings, etc., and had now moved to the straits to 
begin the building of that city. 

Having such an immense financial interest 
at the straits, and being of a literary turn of 
mind, Mr. Conklin had collected together a very 
large and very valuaVjle library of books pertain- 
ing to the early history of that region. Iheie 
was no book in existence pertaining to the straits 
which money could buy which was not found in 
his library. We found there the writings of 
Father Marquette, Hennepin, La Hantan, Alex- 
ander Henry, and numerous others among the 
early missionaries and explorers. 

We found Bell's Canada, Sheldan's Early Mich- 
igan, Dillan's Early Settlement of the Northwest- 
em Territory, Parkman's Pontiac, and a host of 
other books which were to us of the most intense 
interest. With the books found in this library 
we spent the greater portion of our second win- 
ter in Mackinac. We studied the history of the 
straits until it was as familiar as A. B. C- to us. 

We were also very greatly interested in con- 
versing with the old settlers who lived upon the 
Island at the time. Among these were Ambrose 
and William Davenport, two brothers, Americans, 
with Indian women for wive i. These two men, 
now both dead, were in the employ of the North 
American Fur Company during almost the entire 
period of its existence. They were upon the 
Island during the exciting scenes of the war of 
1812, and pointed out to us many localities of 
interest connected with those exciting events. 



These gentlemen also gave us a good many chap- 
ters of the unwritten history of the great North- 
west. We have listened for hours, with the most 
intense interest, to the tales which these men told 
of life among the Indians during the palmy days 
of the North American Fur Company. 

After a winter spent in the careful study of the 
written and unwritten history of the straits, we 
gave to the public the results of our labor in a 
book of about 175 pages which we called Old and 
New Mackinac. This book met with a very cor- 
dial reception, and has now passed through three 
editions. It has been about the worst stolen book 
of which we have any knowledge. A fellow by the 
name of Tuttle,who,a few years ago,published what 
he called a history of Michigan, incorporated 72 
solid pages of Old and New Mackinac without so 
much as a quotation mark to indicate that the 
matter had ever appeared in print before. Oth- 
ers have been almost as liberal in appropriating 
to their owr purposes the results of our honest 
toil. Few authors, we imagine, have been so 
highly complimented in this regard. 

We give the present little volume to the public 
in response to the very earnest request of our 
friends living on Mackinac Island. It is designed 
as a pocket companion book for the tourist, tell- 
ing him where to go and how to get there . In 
its preparation we have made use of some of the 
descriptive portions of Old and New Mackinac, 
but have been compelled for lack of space to 
leave the historical portions of that Tolume alone, 
We have, however, reduced the price on that 
book so that the tourist who may desire both the 
historical and descriptive, may obtain the two 
volumes for the price formerly paid for the one . 




MACKINAC ISLAND. 




HILE presenting our 
^ ftj^m!(|v readers with a, de- 
(;, Siife-ldtl] ,, scription of the sum- 
mer Resort'* of the 
s^^(^ ' Mackinaw region we 
^^1$^ begin with Mackinac Is- 

'\op land. We do this, not 
' because this Ishind pos 
sesses all the attractions 
of the Mackinaw region, but 
because to us it possesses more 
of these attractions than any 
other one point. We know of 
no locality anywhere in this 
portion of the state so free from 
flies, bugs, mosquitoes and 
snakes as this. We know of g 
no locality the climate of which £ 
is so even tempered. The lake ^ 
shore towns have what they g 
call the lake and land breezes, | 
the former always cool, the lat- h 
ter not always so cool. Macki- ^ 
nac Island knows no land breez- p 
es. Come from what direction ^ 
they may, the winds that blow g 
upon this Island are always cool ^ 
and pleasant. As a place to '^■ 
spend the sultry months of sum- B 
mertimein absolute "laziness," c 
Mackinac has few equals and g 
no superiors. > 

Namp -^^ ^^^ back as we 
nalllC' have any knowledge 
of it, this Island lias been a 
place of great interest. It re- 
ceived its original name from 
the Indians. An old legend re- 
lates that a large number of 
these people were once assem- 
bled at Point St. Ignace, and, 
while intently gazing at the 
rising of the sun, during the 
Great Manitou, or February 
Moon, they beheld the island 

suddenly rise up from the water, 

assuming its present form. 

From the point of observation, 
it bore a fancied resemblance 
to the back of a huge turtle; 
hence they gave it the name Moc^che^ne'- 
mock^e''nung, which means a great turtle. 
This name, when put into a French dress, 
became Michilimacinac. From the ishind 
it passed to the adjacent points. In some 
connections in the early history, the naiue 
is applied to the section as a whole; in oth- 
ers, to the point north of the Straits; but 




more frequentlv to that south of the Straits, 
now know as Old Mackinaw. The term is 
now obsolete, except as applied to the 
county which lies immediately north of the 
Straits, in which the island is included. 
The Island has now taken upon itself the 
name of Mackinac, pronounced Mackinaw; 
ac is the original French termination. 



12 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



Father Marquette llius described the 
Island in 1671: I 

"Michilimackinac is an island, famous in these I 
regions, of more than a league in diameter, and 
elevated in some places by such high cliffs as to 
be seen more than twelve leagues off. It is sit- 
uated just in the strait forming the communica- 
tion between Lake Huron and Illinois (Michigan). 
It is the key and, as it were, the gate for all the 
tribes from the south, as the Sault is for those of 
the north, there being in this section of country 
only those two passages by water; for a great 
number of nations have to go by one or other of 
these channels, in order to reach the French 
settlements. 

"This presents a peculiarly favorable oppor- 
tunity, both for instructing those who pass here, 
and also for obtaining easy access and convey- 
ance to their places of abode 

"This place is the most noted in these regions 
for the abundance of its fishes; for. according 
to the Indian saying, 'this is the home of the 
fishes.' Elsewhere, although they exist in large 
numbers, it is not properly their 'home,' which is 
in the neighborhood of Michilimackinac. 

"In fact, besides the fish common to all the 
other tribes, as the herring, carp, pike, gold-fish, 
white-fish, and sturgeon, there are found thi-ee 
varieties of the trout, — one common ; the second 
of a larger size, three feet lona; and one foot 
thick; the third monstrous, for we can not other- 
wise describe it, it being so fat that the Indians, 
who have a peculiar relish for fats, can scarcely 
eat it Besides, the supply is such that a single 
Indian will take forty or fifty of them through 
the ice, with a single spear, in three hours, 

"It is this attraction which has heretofore 
drawn to a point so advantageous the greater 
part of the savages in this country, driven away 
by fear of the Iroquois. 

"It is worthy of notice that those who bore the 
name of the island, and called themselves Mich- 
ilimackinacians, were so numerous that some of 
the survivors yet living here assure us that they 
once had thirty villages, all inclosed in a fortifi- 
cation of a league and a half in circuit, when the 
Iroquois came and defeated them, inflated by a 
victory they had gained over three thousand men 
of that nation, who had carried their hostilities 
as far as the country of the Agnichronnons. 

"In one word, the quantity of fish, united with 
the excellence of the soil for Indian corn, has 
always been a powerful attraction to the tribes in 
these regions, of which the greater part subsist 
only on fish, but some on Indian corn. On this 
account, many of these same tribes, perceiving 
that the peace is likely to be established with the 
Iroquois, have turned their attention to this 
point, so convenient for a return to their own 
country, and will follow the examples of those 
who have made a beginning oa the islands of 
Lake Huron, which by this means, will soon be 
peopled from one end to the other, an event 
highly desirable to facilitate the instruction of 
the Indian race, whom it would not be necessary 
to seek by journeys of twu or three hundred 
leagues on these great lakes, with inconceivable 
danger and hardship. 



"In order to aid the execution of the design, 
signified to us by many of the savages, of taking 
up their abode at this point, where some have 
already passed the Winter, hunting in the neigh- 
borhood, we ourselves have also wintered here, 
in order to make arrangements for establishing 
the Mission of St. Ignace, from whence it will be 
easy to have access to all the Indians of Lake 
Huron, when the several tribes shall have settled 
each on its own lands. 

"With these advantages, the place has also its 
inconveniences, particularly for the French, who 
are not yet familiar, as are the savages, with the 
different kinds of fishery, in which the latter are 
trained from their birth; the winds and the tides 
occasion no small embarrassment to the fisher- 
men. 

"The winds: For this is the central point be- 
tween the three great lakes which surround it, 
and which seem incessantly tossing ball at each 
other. For no sooner has the wind ceased blow- 
ing from Lake Michigan than Lake Huron hurls 
back the gale it has received, and Lake Superior 
in its turn sends forth its blasts from another 
quarter, and thus the game is played from one 
to the other: and as these lakes are of vast ex- 
tent, the winds can not be otherwise than boister- 
ous, especially during the Autumn. 

Indian Mythology T.lt T^i'ltZ, 

Pairies; hence, the Indians have always 
regarded it with a species of veneration. 
According to Indian tradition, it is the 
birthplace of Michabow, the Indian god of 
waters. Tiie day is still within the memory 
of many individuals now living on the 
island when the heathen Indians, in passing 
to and fro by its shores, made offerings of 
tobacco and other articles to these Great 
Spirits, to propitiate their good will. These 
fairies, we are told, had a subterranean 
abode under the island, the entrance to 
which was near the base of the hill, just 
below the present southern gate of the 
fort. An old Indian Chees'a^kee, or Spirit- 
ualist, who once encamped within the lim- 
its of the present garrison, is related to 
have visited this abode of the fairies under 
the following circumstances: During the 
night, while wrapped in the unconscious- 
ness of a sound slumber, one of these spirits 
approached the place where he was, laid his 
shadowy hand upon him, and beckoned him 
to follow. In obedience to the mysterious 
request, his spirit left the body, and went 
with the fairy. Together they entered into 
the mystic dwelling-place of the spirits. 
Here the Cheesakee was introduced to the 
Crreat Spirits assembled in solemn conclave. 
He was lost in wonder and admiration at 
what he saw around him. The place where 
they were assembled seemed to be a very 
large and beautiful wigwam. After spend- 
ing some time in the fairy abode, the mas- 
ter-spirit of the assembly directed one of 
the lesser spirits to show the Indian out, 
and conduct him back to his body. What 
were the proceedings of that assembly, the 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



13 



Indian could not be induced to tell, nor 
were the particulars of what he saw during 
that mysterious visit ever made known to 
his fellow red men. From their fairy 
abodes these spirits issued forth at the 
twilight hour to engage, "with rapid step 
and giddy whirl, in their mystic dance." 

Something of the feeling of veneration 
which the red men had for this, to them, 
enchanted island, may be learned from the 
following soliloquy of an old Indian chief. 
He was just leaving the island to visit his 
friends in the Lake Superior country. The 
shades of night were falling around him, 
and the deep-blue outlines of the island 
were dimly shadowed forth. As he sat 
upon the deck of the steamer and watched 
the "lovely isle" fast receding from his 
view, memory was busy in recalling the 
scenes of by-gone days, and the emotions of 
his heart found expression in these words : 

"Moc'che^ne^mock^e^nung, thou isle of 
the clear, deep-water lake, how soothing it 
is, from amidst the curling smoke of my 
opawgua (pipe), to trace thy deep-blue out- 
lines in the distance ; to call from memory's 
tablets the traditions and stories connected 
with thy sacred and mystic character! How 
sacred the i"egard with which thou hast 
been once clothed by our Indian seers of 
by-gone days! How pleasant in imagina- 
tion for the mind to picture and view, as if 
now present, the time when the Great Spirit 
allowed a peaceful stillness to dwell around 
thee: when only light and balmy winds 
were permitted to pass over thee, hardly 
ruffling the mirror surface of the waters 
that surrounded thee; or to hear, by evening 
twilight, the sound of the Giant Fairies as 
they, with rapid step and giddy whirl, dance 
their mystic dance on thy limestone battle- 
ments! Nothing then disturbed thy quiet 
and deep solitude but the chippering of 
birds and the rustling of the leaves of the 
silver-barked birch," But these fairy spirits 
have long since deserted their island home, 
and gone, we know not where; and the 
race of beings in whose imagination they 
lived^has also well-nigh passed away. 

lA/hon Qd-H-IoH F">tn father Marquette's 
Wnen oeuieu description of the island, 
we learn that it was often the chosen home 
of the savage tribes. Marquette was doubt- 
less the first white man to visit it, or at 
least to dwell upon it. The first perma- 
nent white settlement on this island was 
made in 1780, when the fort and town were 
removed to this point, not because of its 
superiority in a commercial or military 
point of view, but for the security which it 
afforded against the surrounding Indian 
tribes. Had that one event of June 4, 17^3, 
the massacre at Old Mackinac, never oc- 
curred, this island would no doubt have 
still been in the liands of nature, and the 
fort and town at Old Mackinac, where 
they properly belong. Contrary to the 
treaty of 1783, the English held possession 



of the island until 1795, when they were 
compelled to give it up. 
Pnniilo-l-inn The size and population of 
rupuidllUIl the town has varied at dif- 
ferent stages of its history. In 1820 it con- 
sisted "of about one hundred and fifty 
houses, and some four hundred and fifty 
permanent inhabitants." At that time 
there was no school, no religious service, 
no attorney, and no physician (other than 
at the garrison) in the place. There were, 
however, courts of law, a post office, a jail, 
and one or more justices of the peace. At 
present, there are about nine hundred in- 
habitants, many of whom are engaged in 
fishing, and absent during a greater part of 
the Summer. 

North American Fur Company. — 

The most interesting feature of the island, 
since the war of 1812, has been its connec- 
tion with the fur-trade carried on by John 
Jacob Astor, Esq. , of New York. Previous 
to 1809, an association of traders existed, 
called the Mackinac Company; but at that 
date Mr. Astor organized the American 
Fur Company. Two years after this, he 
bought out the Mackinac Company, and es- 
tablished a new Company known as the 
South-west. During the Winter of 1815 
and 1816, Congress enacted a law that no 
foreigner should engage in trade with the 
Indians who did not become citizens, and 
after this Mr. Astor again established the 
American Company. This Company was 
organized with a capital of two million dol- 
lars. It had no chartered right to a monop- 
oly of the Indian trade, yet by its wealth 
and influence it virtually controlled that 
trade through a long series of years. Tiie 
outposts of the Company were scattered 
throughout the whole West and North- 
west. This island was the great central 
mart. The goods were brought to the Com- 
pany's store- houses at this point from New 
York by way of the lakes, and from Quebec 
and Montreal by way of the Ottawa, Lake 
Nipissing, and French River, and from this 
point they were distributed to all the out- 
posts; while from all the Indian countries 
the furs were annually brought down to the 
island by the Company's agents, whence 
they were sent to New York, Quebec, or 
the various markets of the Old World. 
The traders and their clerks who went into 
"the countries" were employed by the 
Company at a salary of from four to six 
hundred dollars per year, but the engages 
or boatmen who were engaged in Canada, 
generally for five years, received, besides a 
yearly supply of a lew coarse articles of 
clothing, less than one hundred dollars per 
annum. Generally, at the end of five years, 
the poor voyageurs were in debt from fifty 
to one hundred and fifty dollars, which they 
must pay before they could leave the coun- 
try ; and the trader often took advantage of 
this, even encouraging the men to get in 
debt, that they might avoid the necessity of 



14 



MACKINAC ISLAND, 



introducing new and inexperienced men 
into the country. The men were fed main- 
ly on soup made of hulled corn, or some- 
times of peas, with barely tallow enough to 
season it, and without salt, unless they 
purchased it themselves at a high price. 
The goods were put up in bales or packs of 
about eighty pounds each, to be carried into 
the countries. Upon setting out, a certain 
number of these packs were assigned to 
each boatman, which he must carry upon 
his back across the portages, some of which 
were fifty miles over. They performed the 
journeys over these portages by short 
stages, or by carrying the pacJiS but a short 
distance at a time, tlius never permitting 
their goods to be separated. The route of 
travel to the head waters of the Mississippi 
was by way of Lake Kuron, St. Mary's 
River, Lake Superior, and such rivers as 
would take them nearest, the particular 
points to which the various parties had 
been assigned. The valleys of the Missis- 
sippi and the Missouri were reached by way 
of Green Bay, Fox, and Wisconsin Rivers. 
The traders often occupied nearly the 
whole summer in the trip Irom their trad- 
ing-posts to Mackinac and back. 

Mr. Astor's principal agent on this island 
was Ramsey Crooks, to whom, with others, 
he sold out in 1834; but the trade now 
lacked the energy and controlling influence 
which Mr. Astor had given it, and the 
Company soon became involved. In 1848; 
the business was closed, and the property 
sold. In its best days, the business was 
one of mammoth proportions; but it exists 
now only in historv. 

Population in \820.-!te'i^ll%fat 

scription of the state of society in 1820 : 
" Society at Michilimackinac consists of so 
many diverse elements, which impart their 
hue to it, that it is not easy for a passing 
traveller to form any just estimate of it. 
The Indian, with his plumes and gay and 
easy costume, always imparts an Oriental 
air to it. To this the Canadian— gay, 
thoughtless, ever bent on the present, and 
caring nothing for to-morrow— adds anoth- 
er phase. Tue trader, or interior clerk, 
who takes his outfit of goods to the Indians, 
and spends elevtn months of the year in 
toil and want and petty traffic, appears to 
dissipate his means with a sailor-li^e im- 
providence in a few weeks, and then returns 
to his forest wanderings, and boiled corn, 
pork, and wild rice again supply his wants. 
There is, in these periodical resorts to the 
central quarters of the Fur Company, much 
to remind one of the old feudal manners, in 
which there is proud hospitality and a show 
of lordliness on the one side, and gay ob- 
sequiousness and cringing dependence on 
the other, at least ti 11 the annual bargains 
for the trade are closed." 



Present Population. 



The elements of 
the present pop- 
ulation are much the same as during the 
palmy days of the fur-trade. Indians, prim- 
itive possessors of the "beautiful isle," are 
still present, and constitute no inconsider- 
able portion of the inhabitants. Many of 
the old French and English voyageurs, who 
have spent the best part of their lives in 
the employ of the fur-trade, are also living 
upon the island. The population is mixed. 
English, French, and Indian blood frequent- 
ly flows in the veins of the same family. 
Aside from the original population, there 
are several very excellent families, who 
have come to the place at a comparatively 
recent date. 

Description of Town. "^^1 £'Z''^'f. 

feet curiosity. It is situated at the foot of 
the bluff, upon the brow of which stands 
the fort, and extends for the distance of 
about a mile around the beach. It contains 
two churches, the old mission church and 
the Catholic church, several good hotels cap- 
able of accommodating from thirty to two 
hundred guests each, a number of stores, 
about one hundred dwelling houses a post- 
office, court-house, and jail. Some of the 
buildings are of modern architecture, but 
others are antique in design and appearance. 
There are buildings yet standing, parts of 
which were brought from Old Mackinac 
when the town and fort were removed from 
that point, while several of the houses, 
some of which are yet occupied, were stand- 
ing during the troubled and exciting scenes 
of 1812. Many of the fences are of the 
original palisade style. Let us make the cir- 
cuit of the town, starting from the docks. 
As we proceed along the beach toward the 
West, we see buildings of every description, 
from the most modern style down to the 
shanty with clapboards and shingles of 
bark. Beyond the extreme western limits 
of Shanty Town is the site of the old distil- 
lery, where, in 1812, the terrified and trem- 
bling inhabitants were gathered for safety 
while Captain Roberts, with his savage 
allies, should possess himself of the fort and 
island. Above this is the old Indian bury- 
ing ground, where still sleeps the molder- 
ing dust of many a brave son of the forest. 
Retracing our steps, we turn to the left and 
passed through Shanty Town, principally 
occupied by fishermen, who are absent dur- 
ing most of the Summer. The fishing- 
grounds extend from Drummond's Island, 
near Detour, around the north shores of 
Huron and Michigan to Green Bay, includ- 
ing the islands in the northern portion of 
both these lakes. As we return to the 
town, on the back street, we notice on the 
right the old Catholic burying-ground, upon 
which once stood the old log church 
brought from Old Mackinaw after the mas- 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



15 



sacre. Farther along, upon the same side 
of the road, is an antique house with huge 
stone chimneys and dormer windows.which, 
during the war of 1812, was occupied by Dr. 
Mitchell- Mitchell was a traitor, and after 
the return of peace, had to leave the island 
and country for Canada. For a full and 
reliable account of the war of 1812, as it re- 
lated to this island, we must refer the 
reader to Old and Xew Mackinac. Adjoin- 
ing the court-house is the old store-house 
of the American Fur Company, which was 
the place of deposit and point of departure 
for all the merchandise of that Company. 
This with the adjacent buildings, now the 
Astor House, was put up by the Company 
for tlie accommodation of the clerks when 
they came out of the Indian countries dur- 
ing the Summer. 

Fnrt RarriPti Returning now to the 
rui I uai ucii. point from which we set 
out, let us make our way toward the east- 
ern extremity of the town along Main ' St. 
Main St. extends from the extreme east to 
the extreme west end of the town and is as 
fine a street as any town in the state can 
boast. The large garden upon our left as 
we leave the business portion of the town, 
belongs to the fort. It is cultivated by the 
soldiers of the garrison, and does much 
towards supplying them with vegetables of 
almost every variety. Potatoes, beets, car- 
rots, radishes, onions, cabbage, cucumbers, 
etc., are produced in great abundance and 
of the best quality. Cherries, currants, 
strawberries, and other small fruits also 
grow plentifully in this and other gardens, 
and from one tree, standing near the fort 
barn, twenty-two barrels of apples were 
taken at a single gathering, a few years 
since. In this garden is the site of the old 
government or council house, the first build- 
ing ever erected upon the island. 

Adjoining the garden on the east is the 
old agency property. The building now 
occupied by the union-school of the place 
was erected by the government for the ac- 
commodation of the Indians during their 
periodical visits to the island for the pur- 
pose of receiving their annuities, but never 
much used by them. This building was 
given to the village for school purposes by 
the government. As it was erected for the 
Indians and as a large majority of the 
children on the Island had more or less 
Indian blood in their veins the government 
thought that the original purpose for which 
the building was erected would be best car- 
ried out in that way. 

On the vacant lot just east of the building 
now used for the village school was tlie old 
agency proper. The building was erected 
over sixty years ago as a residence and 
ofiice for the United States Indian agent 
and for many years the Indian payments 
were all made in it. Afterward it was 
used as a residence by a succession of per- 
sons, the writer among the number. The 



building was burned 
years ago. 



down about eight 
building 



Catholic Church. Scl^amacts par- 
ticular attention is the Catholic Church. 
This was at first a small log structure erect- 
ed in 1832 by Father Mazzuclielli. The orig- 
inal structure was twice enlarged, and 
finally displaced entirely, by the present 
more commodious edifice. 

Miccinn Uniico At the extreme eastern 
ISSIOn nOUSe. end of Main St., is the 
old mission property, now in possession of 
Mrs. E. A. Frank?, the house being kept by 
her as a hotel. Tlie history of this mission 
is briefiy as follows: In the month of June 
in the year 1820, the Rev. I)r Morse, father 
of the inventor of the telegraph, visited 
this island, and preached the first Protes- 
tant sermon ever delivered in this portion 
of the North-west. Becoming particularly 
interested in the condition of the traders 
and natives, he made a report of his visit 
to the United Foreign Mission Society of 
New York, in consequence of which the 
Rev. W. M.Ferry, a graduate of Union Col- 
lege,wa3 sent in 1822 to explore the field. In 
1823, Mr. Ferry, with his wife, opened a 
school for Indian children which, before the 
close of the year, contained twelve scholars. 
In 182t), the school and little church passed 
into the hands of the American Board of 
Commissioners for Foreign Missions and 
as Mackinac was easy of access to the In- 
dians of the lakes and the Upper Mississip- 
pi, it was determined to make it a central 
station, at which there should be a large 
boarding-school, composed of children col- 
lected from all Northwestern tribes. These 
children were expected to stay here long 
enough to acquire a common-school educa- 
tion and a knowledge of manual labor. 
Shops and gardens were provided for the 
lads, and the girls were trained for house- 
hold duties. The first report of the mission 
made to the American Boards of Commis- 
sioners for Foreign Mission was at the 
meeting held in New 1 ork in September, 
1827. It contained the following facts: 
Number of teachers, eight; Rev. William 
M. Ferry, Superintendent; Mr. John S. 
Hudson, teacher and farmer; Mr. Heyden- 
burk and wife, Mrs. Hudson, Miss Eunice 
Osmer, Miss Elizabeth M'Farlaud, and Miss 
Delia Cooke, teachers; there were one hun- 
dred and twelve scholars in the school, who 
had been collected from the whole region 
extending from the white settlements south 
of the Great Lakes to Red River and Lake 
Athabasca; there had been several inter- 
esting cases of conversion ; French priests 
had occasionally visited the region, and op- 
posed the mission to the extent of their 
power. 

During the winter of 1828-9, a revival in- 
fluence prevailed. Thirty-three were added 
to the church, and ten or twelve others ap- 
peared to have become penitent for sin. 



16 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



Instances of conversion occurred even in | 
the depths of the wilderness, amon? the 
traders. The church now numbered fifty- ; 
two members— twenty-five of Indian de- 
scent and twenty-seven whites exclusive of I 
the mission family. The establishment j 
continued prosperous for several years. At 
times there were nearly two hundred pupils 
in the school, among whom were represent- 
atives of nearly all the Indian tribes to the 
north and west. 

Owing to the great expense of the school, 
the plan was modified in 1833, the number 
of scholars being limited to flf ty,and smaller 
stations commenced in the region beyond 




Lake Superior and the Mississippi. In 
1834, Mr. Ferry was released from the mis- 
sion ; and in 1837, the population having so 
changed aroutid Mackinac, and the resort of 
the Indians to the island for purposes of 
trade having so nearly ceased that it was 
no longer an advantageous site for an 
Indian mission, the enterprise was aban- 
doned. 

The mission-house was erected in 1825, 
and the church in 1827-30. After the close 
of the mission, the property passed into the 
hands of the present occupant. We can 
not say how much or how little was accom- 
plished by this mission ; the revelations of 
eternity alone will give full 
and relialile information on 
tills point. We only know 
that many who would other- 
wise have been left in ignor- 
ance and heathenism are in- 
debted to the Christian efforts 
of these missionaries for a 
knowledge both of the arts 
and sciences, and of the way 
of salvation. 

Fort Mackinac, now midi 

the circuit of the town, we are 
ready for the two forts. Fort 
Mackinac, which stands on a 
rocky eminence just above 
the town, was built by the 
English ninety years ago. It 
is new garrisoned by a small 
company of United Slates 
troops under the command of 
Maj. E. E. Sellers. There are 
six brass pieces, and arms and 
accoutrements for a full com- 
pany. The buildings are a 
hospital, just outside the wall 
east of the fort; a guard-house, 
near the south-gate; officers' 
quarters, near the south-west 
angle of the fort, and on the 
hill near the flag-staff ; quar- 
ters for themen.in the center; 
block-bouses on the walls; 
magazine, in the hollow, not 
far from the south gate; store- 
houses, ciffices, etc. There are 
pejsons yet living on the Is- 
land who, during the troubles 
of 1814, took refuge in these 
self same block-houses. Pass- 
sing out at the rear gate of 
Eort Mackinac, we cross the 
parade-ground, and see the 
spot where Captain Roberts 
planted his guns in 1812, while 
his whole force of Indians 
was concealed in the adjacent 
thickets. Capt. Roberts dis- 
embarked at British Landing, 
marched across the Island and 
took up his station at this point 
without being discovered. 



< 

pi 
o 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



17 



c^^*. u<%i»«ne Half or three-quarters of 
h Ort nOimeS- ^ mUe to the rear of Fort 
Mackinac, on the crowning point of the 
island, is Fort Holmes. This was built 
soon after the British captured the post in 
1S12. Each citizen was compelled to give 
three days' work toward its construciion. 
When tinished, the excavation encircling 
the embankment, or earthworks, was mucli 
broader and deeper than now, and the em- 
bankment itself was lined on the outside 
by cedar poles, reaching from the bottom 
of the ditch to its top ; while a quarter or a 
third of the distance from the top of the 
embankment to the bottom of the ditch, 
cedar pickets interlocked with these poles, 
which'extended out over the ditch like the 
eaves of a house, making it absolutely im- 
possible for any one to get inside the fort 
except by the gate The place of the gate 
is seen on the eas: side, one of the posts yet 
remaining to mark its position. In the 
center of the fort was erected a huge block- 
house, beneath w^hich was the magazine. 
Near the gate was the entrance to several 
underground cellars, which have now 
caved in. The fort was defended by sev- 
eral small guns, the largest of which was 
an eighteen-pounder, placed on the point, 
on the opposite side of the cellars from the 
fort. They undertook to dig two wells; 
but, finding no water at the depth of one 
hundred feet, they became discouraged and 
relinquished the attempt. 

The fort, we are told, presented a very 
tiue appearance when finished. It was first 
named Fort George; but, after the sur- 
render of tlie island to the Americans, it 
was called Fort Holmes, in memory of the 
lamented Major Holmes, who fell in the 
engagement at Early's farm . 

After the return of the Americans, a 
party of officers, wishing to see what they 
could do, planted a gun at the rear gate of 
Fort Mackinac and made the block-house 
in Fort Holmes a mark. They soon tore 
this monument of English absurdity to 
pieces, showing how ill adapted the Fort 
was to the purix)6es intended. The frag- 
ments of the building were afterward re- 
moved to the foot of the hill beneath Fort 
Mackinac and made into a barn which is 
yet standing 

From the "lookout," built so je years 
since at Fort Holmes, by Government En- 
gineers, a commanding view of the island 
may be obtained. The little clearings seen 
in various places were once gardens, culti- 
vated by American soldiers. That in the 
vicinity of Arch Rock was called the "big 
garden." In 1812, when the English cap- 
tured the- island, the clearing on the high 
plateau back of Fort Holmes, was planted 
with potatoes, and when the Americans 
came back to take possession of the island | 
in the spring of 181.5, the English, not hav- j 
ing cultivated it during the time, were com- ' 
pelled to plow it up and plant it, that ac- 1 



cording to the terms of the treaty they 
might leave everything as they found it. 

National Park, fj^^'.^ ^» i^^erTj^ 

whose birtliplace is on this island, at the 
earnest solicitation of parties who are deep- 
ly interested in the island, succeeded in 
getting a. resolution through congress for- 
ever dedicating the major part of the island 
to the public to be used as a National Park. 
The resolution which reads as follows will 
give the reader a correct idea ot the ends 
sought in the establishment of this park: 

Resolctd by the Senate^ That the Secretary of War be 
directed to consider the expediency ol dedicating to the 
(jublic use so much ol' the Island of Mackinac, lying in 
the Straits of Mackinac, within the County of Mackinac, 
in the State of Michigan, as is now held by the United 
States under Militiiry Itcscrvation or otherwise (excepting 
the Fort Mackinac and so much of the present reserva- 
tion thereof as bounds it to the south of the village of 
Mackinac, and to the west, north, and east, respectively, 
by lines drawn north and south, east and west, at a dis- 
tance from the present fort llag-stalT of four hundred 
yards), to be reserved and withdrawn from settlement, 
occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, 
and dedicated and set apart as a National Public Park, 
or grounds, for health, comfort, and pleasure, for the 
benefit and enjoyment of the people ;*that all persons 
who shall locate or settle upon or occupy the same or any 
part thereof, except as herein provided, shall be consid- 
ered trespassers and removed therefrom; that said public 
park shall be under the exclusive control of the Secretary 
of War, whose duty it shall he to make and publish such 
rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper 
for the care and management of the same. Such regu- 
lations shall provide for the preservation from injury or 
spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curios- 
ities, or wonders within said park, and their retention in 
their natural condition. The Secretary may in his dis- 
cretion, grant leases, tor building purposes, of small 
parcels of ground at such places in said park as shall re- 
quire the erection of buildings for the accommodation of 
visitors, for terms not exceeding ten years ; all of the pro- 
ceeds of said leases, and all other revenues derived from 
any source connected with said park, to be expended, 
under his direction, in the management of the same and 
in the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. 
He shall provide against the wanton destruction of game 
or fish found within said park, and against their capture 
or destruction for any purposes of use or profit. He 
shall also cause all persons trespassing upon the same, 
when by law thus set apart, to be removed therefrom, and 
generally shall be autuorized to take all such measures 
a« shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the ob- 
jects and purposes expressed; and that the Secretary be 
reciuired lo report to the Senate, at the opening of the 
next session of Congress, whether or not such dedica- 
tion would be incompatible with ihe.public service. 

Nothing has been done toward the im- 
provement of this park up to the present 
time. We are informed however, that a 
movement is now on foot to aell the govern- 
ment land on Bois Blanc Island, aud de- 
vote the proceeds together with an appro- 
priation which it is hoped will before long 
be made by Congress to its improvement. 
Tnac this may be done very soon is certain- 
ly the earnest wish of all who have any 
just appreciation of the Island. 

Natural Scenery. ™/ S'^iBiaod""? 

Mackinac is unsurpassed. Nature seems 
to have exhausted herself in the clustered 
objects of interest which everywhere meet 
the eye. The lover of nature may wander 
through the shaded glens, and climb over 
the rugged rocks of this island for weeks, 
and even months, and never grow weary ; 



18 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



for each day some laow object of beauty 
and interest will aitract his attention. As 
you approach the isUind, it appears a per- 
fect gem. A finer subject tor an artist's 
pencil could not be found- In some places 
it rises almost perpendicularly from the 
very water's edge to the height of one 
hundred and fifty feet, while in otliers the 
ascent is gradual. Parts of the island are 
covered with a small growth of hard-wood 
trees— beech, maple, iron-wood, birch, etc. 
— while other parts abound in a rich variety 
of evergreens, among which spruce, arbor- 
vilfe, ground-pine, white-pine, balsam, and 
juniper predominate. Henry R. School- 
craft, Esq., who first visited the island in 
1820, thus speaks of it: 

"Nothing can exceed the beauty of this 
island. It is a mass of calcareous rock, 
rising from the bed of Lake Huron, and 
reaching an elevation of more than three 
hundred feet above the water. The waters 
around are purity itself Some of its clilfs 
shoot up perpendicularly, and tower in 
pinnacles, like ruinous Gothic steeples. It 
is cavernous in some piaces; and in these 
caverns the ancient Indians, like those of 
India, have placed their dead. Portions of 
the beach are level, and adapted to landing 
from boats and canoes. The harbor, at its 
south end, is a little gem. Vessels anchor 
in it, and find good holding. The little, old- 
fashioned French town nestles around it in 
a very primitive style. The fort frowns 
above it, like another Alhambra, its white 
walls gleaming in the sun. The whole area 
of the island is one labyrinth of curious lit- 
tle glens and valleys. Old green fields ap- 
pear, in some spots, which have been form- 
erly cultivated by the Indians. In some of 
these there are circles of gathered-up stones, 
as if the> Druids themselves had dwelt here. 
The soil, though rough, is fertile, being the 
comminuted materials of broken-down 
limestones. The island was formerly cov- 
ered with a dense growth of rock maples, 
oaks, iron-wood, and other hardwood spe- 
cies; and there are still parts of this an- 
cient forest left, but all the southern limits 
of it exhibit a young growth. There are 
walks and winding paths among its little 
hills, and precipices of the most romantic 
character. And whenever the visitor gets 
on eminences overlooking the lake, he is 
transported with sublime views of a most 
illimitable and magnificent water-prospect. 
If the poetic muses are ever to have a new 
Parnassus in America, they should inevit- 
ably fix on Michilimackinac. Hygeia, too, 
should place her temple here; for it has one 
of the purest, driest, clearest, and most 
healthful atmospheres." 

Geological Aspects. ^^.rlrtSl 

island are curious and interesting. At its 
base may be seen the rocks of the Onon- 
daga Salt group, above which, says Profes- 
sor Winchell, "the well-characterized lime- 



stones of the Upper Helderberg group, to 
the thickness of two hundred and fifty feet, 
exist m a confusedly brecciated condition. 
The individual fragments of the mass are 
angular, and seem to have been but little 
moved from their original places. It ap- 
pears as if the whole formation had been 
shattered by sudden vibrations and un- 
equal uplifts, and afterward a thin calcare- 
ous mud poured over the broken mass, 
percolating through all the interstices, and 
re cementing the fragments. 

"This is the general physical character of 
the mass; but in many places the original 
lines of stratification can be traced, and in- 
dividual layers of the formation can be seen 
dipping at various angles and in all direc- 
tions, sometimes exhibiting abrupt flexures, 
and not infrequently a complete down- 
throw of fifteen or twenty feet. These 
phenomena were particularly noticed at 
the Cliff known as 'Robinson's Folly.' 

"In the highest part of the island, back 
of Old Fort Holmes, the formation is much 
less brecciated, and exhibits an oolitic char- 
acter, as first observed in the township of 
Bedford, in Monroe County." . . . 

"The island of Mackinac shows the most 
indubitable evidence of the former preva- 
lence of the water to the height of two hun- 
dred and fifty feet above the present level 
of the lake; and there has been an unbrok- 
en continuance of the same kind of aqueous 
action from that time during the gradual 
subsidence of the waters to their present 
condition. No break can be detected in the 
evidences of this action from the present 
water-line upward for thirty, fifty, or one 
hundred feet, and even up to the level of 
the grottoes excavated in the brecciated 
materials of 'Sugar-loaf,' the level of 'Skull 
Cave,' and the 'Devil's Kitchen.' 

"While we state the fact, however, of the 
continuity of the action during all this peri- 
od, it is not intended to allege that the 
water of the lakes, as such, has ever stood 
at the level of the summit of Sugar-loaf. 
Nor do we speak upon the question wheth- 
er these changes have been caused by the 
subsidence of the lakes, or the uplift of the 
island and adjacent promontories. It is 
true that the facts presented bear upon 
these and other interesting questions; but 
we must forego any discussion of them " 

In a private communication to the writer, 
the author of these extracts states that, in 
his opinion, there has been some elevation 
of the island and adjacent regions, but more 
subsidence of the wa,ter. The island and 
neighboring promontories were once con- 
tinuous with each other, the isolation hav- 
ing been effected by denudation; "much of 
which," says the same eminent author, 
"was probably effected during the preva- 
lence of the continental glacial, and much 
during the time of flootJs following, and 
the action of the sea while the region was 
submerged." Springs of water, clear and 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



19 



cold, may be found at the base of the high 
cliffs which bound many parts of the island, 
and also at other localities in its interior. 
The geology of the surrounding islands and 
promontories is much the same as that of 
this island. 

Robertson's Folly. S 

general ideas, descriptive and 
geological, we may now pro- 
ceed to visit the various places 
of interest. To aid the tourist 
in tinding these interesting 
localities we invite a little 
careful study of the map of the 
island found on pa^e 3. Fix- 
distinctly in the mind the fol- 
lowing localities: 1. Battle 
Grand. 2. Position of Ameri- 
can gun. 3. Position of Brit- 
ish gun. 4. Place of burial of 
the slain. 5. Parade ground. 
<3 FortMnckinac 7. Mission 
Hout^e. 8. Island House. With 
these points well fixed in 
mind, let us start at Fort 
Mackinac and follow the foot- 
path along the brow of the b 
bluff overlooking the eastern c 
part of the town. To the right s 
and below us we see the school « 
building, Island house, St. a 
Cloud house, several fine rest- " 
dences, the Catholic church ■". 
and a great number of small % 
dwelling houses <!ccupied by t 
fishermen and others. If fond ' 
of natural scenery, we shall 
be delighted with the grand 
panorama of nature, the suc- 
cessive scenes of which will 
be presented to us as we pro- 
ceed. Half or three-quarters 
of a mile from the fort, at the 
south-eastern angle of the is- 
land, is the overhanging cliflf 
known as "Robertson's Folly." 
The following is the interest- 
ing history of this point: Af- 
ter the removal of the fort to 
the island, in 1780, Captain 
Robertson, who then com- 
manded the post, had a Sum- 
mer-house built upon this 
cliff. This soon became a 
place of frequent resort for 
himself and his brother offi- 
cers. Pipes, cigars, and wine 
were called into requisition— for at the time 
no hospitality or entertaiument was com- 
plete without them — and thus many an 
hour, which would otherwise have been 
lonely and tedious, passed pleasantly awav. 
After a few years, however, by the action 
of the elements, a portion of this cliff, with 
the Summer-house, was precipitated to the 
base of the rock, which disastrous event 



gave rise to the name. Around the beach 
below is a confused mass of debris, the re- 
mains, doubtless, of the fall. If sutlicientlv 
reckless you may approach to the very 
brow of this cliff from above and look al- 
most perpendicularly down upon the rocks 




ittle 
the 



Arch of Giant's Stairway. 



north of Robertson's Folly may be seen an 
immense rock standing out boldly from the 
mountain's side, near the base of which is 
a very beautiful little arch, known as the 
"Arch of the (Jiant's Stairway." This arch 
is well worth the trouble of a visit. 



20 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



Arch Bock, t^.r'betcg 

northward from this point is 
somewhat diflicult, on account 
of the large portions of the 
cliffs which have in places 
been precipitated to the wat- 
er's edge; but a good foot- 
path along the brow of the 
bluff brings us, with only a 
few minutes' walk, to the far- 
famed "Arch Rock." This is 
one of nature's works which 
must be seen to be appreciated. 
Words can not fully describe 
it in all its grandeur. It is a 
magnificent natural arch,span- 
ning a cliasm of eighty or 
ninety feet in height, and 
forty or fifty in width. The 
summit of this rock is one 
hundred and forty-nine feet 
above the level of the lake. 
Its abutments are composed 
of calcareous rock, and the 
opening underneath the arch 
has been produced by the fall- 
ing down of the great masses 
of rock now to be seen upon 
the beach below . A. path to 
the right leads to the brink of 
the arch, whence the visitor, 
if sutficiently reckless, may 
pass to its summit, which is 
about three feet in width. 
Here we see twigs of cedar 
growing out of what appears 
to be solid rock, while in the 
rear and on eitLier hand the 
lofty eminence is clothed with 
trees and shrubbery— maple, birch, poplar, 
cedar, and balsam— giving to the landscape 
richness and variety. Before us are the 
majestic waters of Lake Huron, dotted in 
the distance with islands. We may now 
descend through the great chasm, "arched 
by the hand of God," and at the base of 
the projecting angle of the main rock 
find a second arch less magnificent, but 
no less curious and wonderful. Pass- 
ing under this, we soon reach the beach be- 
low, whence the view is particularly grand 
and imposing. The mighty arch seems 
suspended in mid air above us ; and as we 
gaze upon it, lost in wonder and admira- 
tion, we exclaim with the Psalmist, "Lord, 
what is man that thou takest knowledge of 
him, or the son of man that thou makest 
account of him ?" Foster and Whitney say 
of this rock: "The portion supporting the 
arch on the north side, and the curve of the 
arch itself, are comparatively fragile, and 
can not for a long period resist the action 
of rains and frosts, which, in this latitude 
and on a rock thus constituted, produce 
great ravages every season. The arch, 
which on one side now connects this abut- 
ment with the main cliff, will soon be de- 




AECH ROCK. 

stroyed, as well as the abutment itself, and 
the whole be precipitated into the lake. " 

The following parody on a popular song 
was found written on a stone near the base 
of Arch Bock, about fifteen years since: 

•'Beauteous Isle! I sing of thee, 

Mackinac, my Mackinac; 
Thy lake-bound shores I love to see, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac, 
From Arch Rock's height and shelving steep 
To Western cliffs and Lover's Leap, 
Where memories of the lost one sleep, 
Mackinac, my Mackinac. 

Thy northern shore trod British foe, 

Mackinac, my Mackinac, 
That day saw gallant Holmes laid low , 

Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
Now Freedom's flag above thee waves. 
And guards the rest of fallen braves. 
Their requiem sung by Huron's waves, 

Mackinac, my Mackinac." 

Sugar-loaf Rock. ^^^iS^eSl \X 

the interior of the island, we soon find our- 
selves at the "Sugar loaf Rock." This may 
be reached directly from Fore Mackinac, as 
indicated on the map of the island. This 
rock is about one hundred and fifty yards 
from the foot of the high ridge, upon the 
south-east extremity of which stands Fort 



! 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



21 



Holmes. The plateau upon 
which it stands is about one 
hundred and fifty feet above 
the level of the lake, while 
the summit of the rock is two 
hundred and eighty-four feet 
above the lake, giving an ele- 
vation of one hundred and 
thirth-four feet to the rock 
itself. The composition of 
this rock is the same as that 
of Arch Rock. Its shape is 
conical, and from its crevices 
grow a few vines and cedars. 
It is cavernous and somewhat 
crystalline, witn its strata dis- 
torted in every conceivable 
direction. In the north side 
is an opening, surticient in its 
dimensions to admit several 
individuals. Here one might 
find shelter from the most 
violent storm. Within tliis 
opening, upon the smooth 
surfaces of the rock, may be 
found the autographs of hun- 
dre.ls of eager aspirants after 
immortality. As we take ref- 
uge in this rock, we are re- 
minded of the Rock of Ages, 
and led to sing, with tlie 
poet,— 

"Rock of Ages, cleft for ine. 
Let me hide myself in Thee." 

As we approach this rock 
along the road, the effect is 
grand and imposing. The 
patriarch of the ages, it lifts 
its hoary head high up toward heaven, in 
utter defiance of the fury of the elements. 
The view is also very fine from the top of 
the ridge, whence, by its isolated position 
and bold form, it strikes the beholder with 
wonder and admiration. 

The "curious" are ever eager to know by 
what freak of nature this monstrous bowl- 
der has been placed in its present position. 
Has it been thrust up through the crust of 
the earth, like a needle through a garment, 
by some internal volcanic action? or has it 
been separated from the adjacent ridge and 
disentombed from its ancient sepulcher by 
a system of gradual denudation carried on 
by nature through the successive ages of 
the world's history? Science tells us that 
the latter hypothesis is tlie true oue. Fos- 
ter and Whitney, in their geological report, 
mention the Arch and Sugar-loaf Rocks 
"as particular examples of denuding action,'' 
and state that this denuding action, pro- 
ducing such an opening (as in the Arch), 
with other attendant phenomena, could 
only have operated while near the level of 
a large body of water like the great lake 
itself. This coincides with the views of 
Professor Winchell, whom we have already 
quoted on this point. Traces of water-ac- 
tion now seen on the vertical sides of these 




SUGAR-LJAF BOCK. 

two rocks, two hundred feet above the leve i 
of the water, are precisely the same as 
those seen upon the rocks close by the water's 
edge. To all fond of natural curiosities, 
these two rocks alone possess attractions 
sutftcient to justify a visit to the Northern 
lakes. 

Ql/iill RnnU ^^^ ^^ '^ow return to the 
OKUii n\J\jK. fort^ whence we started, 
and again set out in a different direction. 
Half a mile to the rear of Fort Mackinac, 
and only a few yards to the right of the 
road tliat leads to Early's farm is "Skull 
Rock," notea as the place where Alexander 
Henry was secreted by the Chippewa chief, 
Wawatam, after the horrid massacre of the 
British garrison at Old Mackinaw. The en- 
trance to this cave is at present low and 
narrow, and promises little to reward the 
labor.-^ of exploration. 

Torlu'c Parm Two miles west of the 
cany S rarm. village and fort is 
Early s (formerly Michael Dousman's) farm. 
This farm consists of a section of land, and 
produces annually large quantities of hay 
and vegetables of the best quality- Nenr 
the house now occupied by Mr. Early is 
that relic of 1812, the old Dousman house 
across the road from which is the battle- 
ground hallowed by the blood of the lament- 



22 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



ed Holmes and others. After the battle, 
such fragments of the slain as had been left 
on the field by the Indians were gathered 
up and buried near the east end of the little 
mound or ridge on the opposite side of the 
field from ''^^ mf^rf. 



huge rocks peculiar to Mackinac. Its en- 
trance is extremely low; but when once in- 
side, the giant Goliath might stand erect. 
Those intending to visit this cave should 
provide themselves with a lamp or candle, 
as but an occasional ray of sunlight can 




BRITISH LANDING. 



RritiQh I nnriinn Following the road 
Drmsn Lanamg. leading through this 
farm, we soon arrive at the "British Land- 
ing," so named from the fact that Captain 
Eoberts, with his mixed command of Eng- 
lish, French and Indians, here disembarked 
his forces to take the place in 1812. It is 
also noted as the point where the American 
troops under Colonel Croghan effected a 
landing, under cover of the guns of the 
American squadron, on the eventful 4th of 
August, 1814. Croghan marched his troops 
to the edge of the clearing, now Early's 
Farm, where the enemy was in waiting for 
him and ready to dispute his progress. In 
a few seconds a fire was opened upon him. 
The woods on every side of the clearing 
Utterly swarmed with savages. After a 
vigorious but unsuccessful attempt to 
drive the enemy from their stronghold he 
was compelled to retreat with the loss of 
several of his men, Major Holmes among 
the number. 

Crtn-H-'o pQuo Near the north-western 
OtUU b UdVe. point of the island is 
Scott's or Flinn's Cave. To find this, we 
turn to the right a few rods this side of 
Brittish Landing,and follow an unfrequent- 
ed trail through the woods. A stranger 
should not attempt this journey without a 
guide. This cave is underneath one of the 



While in- 
a peculiar 
you, and 
scene de- 
of Revel- 
earth and 



penetrate its hidden chamber, 
side this rock-roofed cavern, 
sensation takes possession of 
you are reminded of the 
scribed in the sixth chapter 
ation, where the kings of the 
the great men hide themselves in the dens 
and in the rocks of the mountain, and say 
to the mountains and rocks,"Fali on us, and 
hide us from the face of him that sitteth 
on the throne, and from the wrath of the 
Lamb: for the great day of his wrath is 
come ; and who shall be able to stand ?" In 
the vicinity of this cave are yet standing a 
few patriarchs of the forest, remnants of 
the heavy growth of timber which, at an 
early day, covered the island. 

npvil'Q kitohpn ^"^ "^^^ tramp will 
UeVII S MlCnen. ^^e around the high 

bluffs which bound the south-western side 
of the island. Leaving the town at its 
western extremity, we may follow the foot- 
path around the brow of these bluffs, or 
continue along the beach, close to the wa- 
ter's edge. About a mile from the village, 
as we pursue the latter course, is the 
"Devil's Kitchen" — a cavernous rock, curi- 
ous both in its formation and in its name. 
Near it is a spring of clear, cold water, 
shaded by evergreens and other trees. 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



23 




Lover's Leap, farther on is 
the famous "Lover's Leap." This 
rock stands out boldly from the 
side of the cliff, and in appear- 
ance is similar to the Sugar Loaf 
rock. There are other points on 
the island to which romantic 
visitors have applied this name; 
but tradition has bestowed the 
title upon this- William M. 
Johnson, Esq., formerly a resi- 
dent ot this village, gives us the 
following legend concerning it: : 

"The huge rock called the' 
'Lover's Leap' is situated about one mile , 
west of the village of Mackinac. It is a 
high, perpendicular bluff, one hundred and j 
fifty to two hundred feet in height, rising 
boldly from the shore of the lake. A soli- 
tary pine-tree formerly stood upon its 
brow, which some vandal has cut down. 

"Long before the pale faces profaned this 
island home of the genii, Me'che^ne^raock^- 
e'nung^o^qua, a young Ojibway girl, just 
maturing into womanhood, often wandered 
there, and gazed from its dizzy heights, and 
witnessed the receding canoes of the large 
war parties of the combined bands of the 
Ojibwas and Otlawas speeding south, seek 
ing for fame and scalps. 

"It was there she often sat, mused, and 
hummed the songs Ge'niw^e^gwon loved ; 
this spot was endeared to her. for it was 
there that she and Ge^niw'e^gwon first met 
and exchanged words of love, and found an 
affinity of soul existing between them. It 
was there that she often sat and saTig the 
Ojibwa love-song: 

" 'Mong-c-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, 
Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-naiu-dum, 
Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, 
Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, 



iilliililliiiiiiiJiiliiliiliJiiiiiiliJfilllliiiiliii^^ 

loteb's leap. 

A-nee-wan-wan-san-bo-a-zode, 
A-nee-wan-wan-san-bo-a-zode.' 

"I give but one verse, which may be 
translated as follows: 

•' 'A loon, I thought, was looming. 
A loon. I thought, was looming, 
Whj'I it is he, ray lover! 
Why ! it is he, my lover! 
His paddle in the waters gleaming. 
His paddle in the waters gleaming.' 

"From this bluff' she often watched and 
listened for the return of the war-parties; 
for amongst them she knew was Ge'niw^e'- 
gwon, his head decorated with war-eagle 
plumes, which none but a brave could sport. 
The west wind often wafted far in advance 
the shouts of victory and death, as they 
shouted t.nd sang upon leaving Pe^quod'e^- 
nong (Old Mackinaw),to make the traverse 
to the Spirit or Fairy Island. 

"One season, when the war-party return- 
ed, she could not distinguish his "familiar 
and loved war-shout. Her spirit told her 
that he had gone to the spirit- land of the 
West. It was so; an enemy's arrow had 
pierced his breast, and after his body was 
placed leaning against a tree, his face front- 
ing his enemies, he died; but ere he died 



24 



MACKINAC ISLAND. 



he wished the mourning warriors to remem- 
ber him to the sweet maid of his heart. 
Thus he died, far away from home and the 
friends he loved. 

" Me''che^ne^mock''e''nung^O''qua's heart 
hushed its beatings, and all its warm emo- 
tions were chilled and dead. The movinjr, 
living spirit of her beloved Ge^niw^e^gwon, 
she witnessed continually beckoning her to 
follow him to the happy hunting-grounds 
of spirits in the West; he appeared to her 
in human shape, but was invisible toothers 
of his tribe. 

"One morning her body was found 
mangled at the foot of the bluff. The soul 
had thrown aside its covering of earth, and 
had gone to join the spirit of her beloved 
Ge^niw^e'gwon, to travel together to the 
land of spirits, realizing the glories and 
bliss of a future, eternal existence." 
Phimnair Qnnb Some little distance 
Unimney nOUK. farther on is "Chim- 
ney Rock," which Professor Wincheli de- 
nominates one of the most remarkable 
masses of rock in this or any other State. 

A foot-path, which leads from the beach 
near the base of Lover's Leap to the plateau 
above, brings us to the old Davenpsrt farm , 
now owned by G. S. Hubbard of Chicago. 
Report says that several Summer-houses 
are soon to be built on this farm, which 
will greatly enhance the beauty of the lo- 
cality. Adjoining this farm is the Jones 
farm, once the property of the Presbyterian 
Mission on the island. 



As a matter of curiosity we here give place to 
the following true coiDy of an enlistment into the 
United States army which took place March 1, A. 
D. 1812, on Mackinac Island: 

MiOHiLTMACKiNAo Territory of Michigan. 

I Henry Vaillencourt born in Michilimacinac, 
Aged 9 years, 4 feet, 4 inches, high of Dark com- 
plexion. Black eyes. Dark hair, do hereby Ac- 
knowledge to have this day Voluntarily enlisted 
as a Soldier in the Army of United States of 
America, for the period of five years unless soon- 
er Discharged by proper authority do also Agree 
to accept such bounty, pay, rations and clothing 
as is, or may be established by law And I Henry 
Vaillencourt, do solemnly swear that I will bear 



true faith and Allegiance to the United States of 
America, and that I will serve them honestly and 
faithfully against their enemies and opposers, 
wheresoever, and that I will observe and obey the 
orders of the president of the United States and 
the orders of the officers appointed over me ac- 
cording to the rules and articles of war (Signed) 
Sworn and Subscribed to 1 his 

at Michilimackinac this [- Henry x Vaillencourt. 
1st day of March, 1812. ) mark 

P. Hanks, I. P. T. M. 



Table of Altitudes. 

The following table of altitudes is drawn from 
Professor Winchell's Geological Report for 1860: 

LOCALITIES. Feet Above Feet Above 

Lake Huron. the Sea. 

Lake Hurou, — .578 

Fort Mackinac 150 728 

Fort Holmes 318 897 

Robertson's Polly 127 705 

Bluft' facing Round Island 147 726 

Summit of Sugar-loaf. 284 862 

Chimney Rock 131 709 

Lover's Leap 145 723 

Top of Arch at Arch Rock 140 718 

Highest Summit at Arch Rock... 149 727 
Top of Buttress facing Lake at 

Arch Rock 105 683 

Principal Plateau of Mackinac 

Island 150 72^ 

Upper Plateau of Mackinac Is- 
land .' 294 872 

Lake Superior 49 627 

Table of Distances. 

The following is a table of distances to various 
points from Mackinac Island and will be of in- 
terest : 

PLACES. MILES. 

Round Island 1 

Bois Blanc Island 3 

Point St. Ignace 4 

East Moran Bay 5 

Mackinaw City 8 

St. Helena Island 13 

Waugoshance Lighthouse zO 

Cheneux Islands 15 

Cheboygan 18 

Cross Village .30 

Middle Village 38 

Detour • 35 

Beaver Island 45 

Petoskey 60 

Alpena 110 

Port Huron 275 

Detroit 344 

Chicago 400 




ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 




FOBT HOLMES. 




]^0 get a comprehensive view of the 
localities round about Mackinac, 
let us again ascend to Fort Holmes 
and take our seats upon the high 
station built by government engi- 

f-- neers. A good fleld glass will prove a 
valuable companion. As we gaze up- 
on the adjacent islands and main lands 
memory is busy with the«cenes of the 
past. Two hundred and fifty years ago only 
bark canoes dotted the surface of the lake. 
A few years later the songs of the Canadian 
voyager, as he rowed or paddled his large 
bateau, echoed and re echoed around the 
shores. Now the shrill whistle of the pro- 
peller is heard, and the white sails of hun- 
dreds of vessels are spread to the breezes. 
The first vessel ever seen on these waters 
was the OHffin in 1679, and the first steamer 
was the Walk-inthe-Water in 1819. 

It would be difiicult to estimate the 
amount of wealth which is annually car- 
ried through these straits. During tlie 



season of navigation from ten to fifty sails 
may always be seen passing up and down 
through the straits, and almost every hour 
in the day from one to ten propellers are in 
full view. 

Rniinrl I0I4 nH J^st across from Macki- 
nuunu ISiana. n^c Harbor, not more 
than a mile away, is Round Island. Dur- 
ing the war of i812, while the Americans 
were cruising about the island, seeking an 
opportunity to recapture it from the Eng- 
lish, an American ofiicer with a number of 
men landed on this island to reconnoiter 
the enemy's position, and if possible find 
an advantageous point at which to erect a 
battery. They proceeded cautious^ly across 
the island until they came to the point 
nearest Mackinac Island. They selected 
the point just jibove the old lime kiln, seen 
so plainly from the village, as the most 
advantageous position for a battery, and at 
once began their return. No sooner, how- 
ever, had the movement l)een iliscovered 



26 



BOUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



by the British, than two or three hundred 
birch-barfe canoes, with several baieaux 
and other boats were launched, and a large 
party of Indians started in pursuit. They 
were not long in gaining the island. The 
party, suspicious of the approach of the In- 
dians, hastened back toward their boats; 
but the island was just at that time covered 
with a plentiful crop of raspberries, and the 
men, ignorant of the foe, loitered somewhat, 
in spite of all that could be said to them. 
When they reached the boat the Indians 
could be seen skulking through the woods 
after them, and one of their number, a 
Frenchman, had been captured. 
Rnic Riann South and east from Round 
DUI5 DidllU. Island is Bois Blanc Island. 
This is by far the largest island in the im- 
mediate vicinity of the straits. It is a gov- 
ernment reservation, though for what pur- 
pose it is reserved we cannot tell. 
Pnint nofniii* About thirtv miles east 
ruilll UCLUUr. fromwlierewe sit, and a 
little to the north, is Poiut Detour. At 
this place is the entrance from Lake Huron 
into St. Mary's River. Though so far away, 
vessels may sometimes be distinctly seen 
entering the river. 

Les Cheneux Islands. If^^^^S- 

tins Islands, the entrance to Les Cheneux 
and the dividing ridge between Lake Hu- 
ron and the St. Mary's River. Les Cheneux 
Islands are among the most interesting lo- 
calities in the Mackinaw Region. Thev 
are about one hundred in number, and are 
about fifteen to twenty miles distant from 
Mackinac. Two of the Islands, name- 
ly, the Marquette and LaSalle, are quite 
large. Others are medium in size, while 
some are no larger than the platform upon 
which we are sitting. 

These islands are nestled together in all 
conceivable styles and shapes. As you pass 
in at the western entrance you see before 
you a small bayou with here and there a 
little island, not larger, perhaps, than the 
floor of a good sized parlor, and covered 
with a bewitching growth of evergreens, 
resting upon its bosom. As you sail on be- 
tween these little islands you see no possi- 
ble way of escape from the labyrinth of 
islands and bayous around you, and begin 
to wonder if your delightful journev must 
so soon come to an end. Finally, however, 
when your excitement has been raised to 
the highest pitch, aud you begin to fear 
that your boat will be dashed upon the 
beach before you, a little narrow channel 
is discovered to the left, and almost before 
you are aware of it your boat has "come 
to" and you are running at right angles 
from your former course. Passing through 
a narrow channel for a short distance, you 
emerge into another net-work of islands 
and bayous similar to the one you have just 
left. From this, perhaps, you find egress 
by turning as abruptly to the right as be- 



fore you turned to the left. This succession 
of interesting bayous, with now and then a 
longer or shorter river-like channel contin- 
ues for perhaps ten miles or more. ->. ^m ^ 




Fishing and hunting are most excellent 
in this locality. Black bass, pickerel, perch, 
etc., and wild fowl, are very abundant at 
most seasons of the year. 

Scammon's Harbor fetwelnTaSiiI 

Island and Boot Island, one of the Cheneux 
group. This is a secure harbor for vessels 
of a large size . The government works for 
the construction and repair of lighthouses, 
are located at this place. The entrance Is 
surrounded by high lands of a romantic 
character. This also is a fine fishing station. 
Mackinaw trout and white fish are taken in 
great abundance, and several fine speckled 
trout streams are near by on the main land. 
The residence of Father A. D. G. Piret 
was at the Cheneux. Father Piret owned 
a large tract of land in this locality, and 
came to be known before his death as the 
"Hermit of Les Cheneux." The land which 
he owned has now passed into the hands 
of Mackinac parties, who contemplate the 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



27 



erection of a suitable hotel for the accom- 
modation of tourists at no distant day. 

Qaiilt Qto Ma rip ^^ situated on St. 
oaUll Oie mane Mary's River, be- 
tween Lakes Superior and Huron, sixty 
miles above the latter and fifteen miles be- 
low the former. It is ninety miles distant 
from Mackinac- The town is located on 
the American side just at the foot of the 
rapids, from which it takes its name. As 
oflficially reported when the last census was 
taken in 1880, two thousand and fifty souls 
composed its population. The town is grow- 
ing steadily, is the county seat of Chippewa 
county, and a port of entry. It is incorpo- 
rated as a village, has a president and com- 
mon council, a good fire department with 
steam fire engine, a Masonic lodge, and 
about the number and variety of business 
establishments usually found in towns of 
its size. It has an Episcopal chapel, Meth- 
odist and Presbyterian churches, and a 
large brick Catholic church just completed. 

Jesuit missionaries first visited" these 
falls in 1641. in 1668 the illustrious Father 
James Marquette established the first per- 
manent white settlement in Michigan on the 
site whereon this village now stands. Father 
Marquette only remained a short time at 
the "Soo," but Jesuit missions have been 
maintained with varying fortunes from 
that day down to the present, and two Jes- 
uit priests now officiate in the church and 
over the charge. 

An important post of the American Fur 
Company was established at this place at 
an early day, which served as a sort of head- 
quarters for the Lake Superior trade. This 
was not abandoned until 1848. The store 
and dock built by the company still stand. 

Fort Brady, situated a little above the 
town on the banks of the river, was estab- 
lished in 1823. This is a two, company fort, 
with large rolling parade grounds, and 
white, neatly kept barracks and officers' 
quarters, presenting a very pretty appear- 
ance from the river. 

The old Indian agency, built at an early 
date by Henry R. Schoolcraft, and occupied 
by him for many years, still stands on the 
bank of the river, and is one of the prettiest 
spots in the village. 

Two very ornamental buildings have re- 
cently been erected,— a stone court house 
costing $24,000 and a brick school house 
costing $10,000. 

The rapids near which the village lies 
descend twenty feet in three-fourths of a 
mile and are about three fourths of a mile 
wide. The scenery on either side is very 
beautiful. A cool breeze always fans the 
village from the rapids, no matter how hot 
may be the weather elsewhere. The chan- 
nels which separate the numerous islands 
that skirt the river banks, afford the finest 
trout fishing, while Indians, in bark canoes 
may always be seen strung along below the 
falls, catching white fish with scoop nets. 



The fish taken at the foot of the rapids are 
unusually fine. Indians can always be 
hired at reasonable prices to take tourists 
to the trout streams or over the rapids in 
their canoes. 

The canal for the passage of vessels 
around the rapids into Lake Superior is on 
the American side and is one mile long. 
There are two sets of locks. The first was 
completed in 1855, and consists of two locks 
70 feet wide, 350 feet long, and twelve feet 
depth of water. The second, consisting of 
only one lock, was completed at a compara- 
tively recent date. This new lock is 80 
feet wide and 560 feet long, and will lock 
through four of the largest vessels on the 
lakes, lifting them up eighteen feet in 
twenty minutes, all at one locking. This is 
said to be the finest piece of masonry in the 
United States. The gates are worked by 
hydraulic power. 

There is a fine section of farming country 
back of Sault Ste Marie, in which over 3,000 
farmers have settled during the last ten 
years. Wheat raised in this section took 
the first prize at the last state fair. 

On the opposite side of the river is a 
handsome little town of about 800 inhabit- 
ants. This was formerly one of the most 
important posts of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, and is well worth visiting. 

The Sault is the starting point for coast- 
ing parties going into the Lake Superior 
region. 

A few of the points of interest accessible 
from the Sault are as follows: GARDEjST 
RIVER INDIAN RESERVATION and 
VILLAGE on the Canadian side, and 
Waiskai Bay Indian A^'illage on the Amer- 
ican side, about twelve miles above. 
ECHO LAKE, a beautiful hill-locked, clear 
lake, about fifteen miles below on the Can- 
adian side, reached by river two miles in 
length, connecting with large river, and 
navigable for small boats. The bluflTs about 
this lake are very precipitous, causing a 
peculiar echo which gives name to the lake. 
LITTLE RAPIDS, about one and one-half 
miles below on the American side, where 
the river divides, passing each side of Sugar 
Island. The swift, deep channels, twine in 
a confusing net-work around countless lit- 
tle islands, making a labyrinth which it 
would take days to explore fully. Trout, 
perch and sun fish are caught here, and 
ducks are numerous in their season. 

Point Aux Pais, six miles above, is a 
beautiful pine-covered point much fre- 
quented 

Point Iriquois, on the American side, 
and GROS CAP on the Canada side, are 
fifteen miles above at the entrance of Lake 
Superior. These points rise abruptly, the 
the former to the hight of 600 and the latter 
to the hight of 700 feet above the water. 
Lake trout are caught here by trolling. 

Taquamenau Bay is above this, into 
the head of which pours the rushing Taqua- 



28 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



menau river, visited by Lorgfellow and 
immortalized in liis Hiawatha. Fifteen 
miles up this river are beautiful falls and 
rapids, descending in all about 100 feet. 
Guides and boats can be easily obtained to 
visit any of these points. 

The run up Sault Ste Marie river from 
Detour, occupying about a half day, is very 
pleasant, the scenery along the banks often 
being compared to the scenery along the 
Hudson. The boat passes into a labyrinth 
of islands, twisting and tui-ning amongst 
them in a must confusing manner, then into 
a broad, straight stream between level 
shores, then in a narrow gorge between 
bold bluffs, then out into an open lake 
fifteen miles wide, and then again between 
high hills. On the right you pass two large 
islands, on each of which is the remains of 
an old British fort. The first is Drum- 
mond's Island, which belongs to Michigan, 
and the second is St. Joseph's Island, be- 
longing to Canada. Each island supports a 
population of farmers. 
St InnaPP ^t)0'^t five miles northwest 
\ji. lyiiauc. Qf ^g jjgg ^^^^ enterprising 

town of St. Ignace. This town is very finely 
yet very singularly located. It extends in 
a sort of semi-circle around the head of 
East Moran Bay for a distance of three and 
one-half miles. At the extreme north end 
of the town is the extensive establishment 
of the Mackinaw lumber company, while at 
the extreme south end is the not less exten- 
sive establishment of the Martel furnace 
company. Lumber, shingles, lath, etc., 
etc, are manufactured on an extensive 
scale by the former of these two companies, 
while by the latter the native ore, as it is 
taken from the iron mines of the Upper 
Peninsula, is subjected to the grinding, 
melting, casting process, and fitted for use 
in the foundries of the country. Gathered 
about each of these two establishments is 
a little berg or village, with stores, shops, 
residences, etc., etc., aufficient for the ac- 
commodation of the few scores of individ- 
uals who are especially interested in them. 
Between these two establishments, and 
forming almost a continuous line from the 
one to the other, is the main part of the 
town. There is scarcely a business place, 
and but very few residences comparatively, 
which are not located along the beach on 
one side or the other of tflie very fine drive- 
way, which runs from ten to fifty feet from 
the water's edge. Thus the town is all long 
and almost no wide at all. There is scarcely 
a town in the state which can boast of a 
more^iextended water front. From 40 to 
150 feet back from the water's edge the 
land rises, in some places abruptly, in others 
more gradually, to the height of from 20 to 
50 feet, thus forming a terrace or table land 
most admirably and charmingly adapted for 
residences. Upon this table land some fine 
dwellings have already been erected, while 
many others are in process of erection. 



The population of St. Ignace numbers 
some 2,500 souls, and is composed of French, 
Indians, half-breeds, etc-, etc., who are the 
old residents of the town, and the much 
larger and much more enterprising "live 
Yankee," "Young America" population, 
which has settled there within the last six 
or eight years. There are about the usual 
number and variety of business places and 
much more than the usual amount of busi- 
ness done, A good Methodist church has 
been erected during the present year, and a 
Oongregational church is soon to be built. 
The Catholic church is one of the oldest 
buildings in the place, yet kept in good re- 
pair. 

In a historical point of view, St Ignace 
is one of the most interesting localities in 
the state. It was settled in 1 671 by Father 
James Marquette, and for more than a 
quarter of a century was really the center 
of everything of interest in the at that time 
wilderness of Michigan . During this period 
it contained a garrison of about 200 well 
disciplined soldiers, with a tine fort of pick- 
ets and "about sixty houses which formed a 
street in a strait line." Some six or seven 
thousand savages dwelt- in villages near by. 
There was a Jesuit mission and college, 
with an unbroken succession of Jesuit 
priests. The lands adjacent were cleared 
and well cultivated, and a sufficient quan- 
tity of Indian corn was produced for the 
use of both the French and savage inhabi- 
tants. The town continued to fiourish until 
some aispute arose between Cadilac, the 
commander at the fort, and the Jesuits, 
when the former repaired to France, where 
he received a commission to establish De- 
troit, which he did in 1701. Subsequent to 
this date the town declined until 1706, when 
the Jesuits became discouraged, burned 
down their college and chapel, and re- 
turned to Quebec The garrison was re- 
established in 1814, but on the south side of 
the straits at Old Mackinaw, now Macki- 
naw City. 

It was from St. Ignace that Father Mar- 
quette set out on the 17th day of May, 1678, 
in search of the Mississippi river. The 
good father had learned much of this river 
from the Indian tribes among whom he had 
labored, and had earnestly longed to see it 
with his own eyes. It was therefore with 
delight that he set out upon the journey. 
It was to this point that bis bones were 
brought back in 1677, two years after his 
death at what is now Ludington, and bur- 
ied in a little vault in the middle of the 
chapel which he himself had constructed, 
and at the altar of which he himself had 
often officiated. After the chapel was 
burned down by the discouraged mission- 
aries in 1706, the final resting place of Mar- 
quette was entirely lost sight of and the 
town ceased to be of any importance. 

Marquette Monument, ^fg^ years 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAW. 



29 



ago the site where the chapel had stood was 
discovered, and excavations made which 
resulted in finding some fragments of the 
birch-bark colhn in which the bones were 
interred, and also some small pieces of the 
bones of the much-lamented missionary 
and discoverer. These were carefully pre- 
served by tlie priest of the place as sacred 
relics, and since that time an association 
has been formed for the purpose of erecting 
a suitable monument to his memory. An 
admirer of Marquette, in speaking of this 
matter, says: 

"The end, men propose to themselves,is seldom 
the end they reach. God works through them 
and plans over them. Marquette meant the 
Christianization of a handful of savages and the 
aggrandizement of his king. He opened to the 
.vorld the gigantic commerce of half a continent. 
They prepared the soil for the growth of an in- 
dependent people, greater than any of the past . 
But though that is our destiny, let us not be de- 
ceived. It is not greatness of numbers, but of 
quality, which alone should occupy this splendid 
New World. It is not advancement only, but 
advancement in the spirit of nobleness, which is 
real progress. We mast go, as Marquette went, 
eager for knowledge, for discovery, ever for new 
and material gain on the one hand, but, on the 
other, not less eager for truth, for freedom, for 
justice, for the helping of every man we meet. 
And if the proposed monument to this simple 



miles distant from this point. The country 
is heavily timbered with maple, beech and 
black birch and is excellent for farming 
purposes. The road then passes through 
some cedar swamps. Good cedar grows in 
abundance on both sides of Carp river 
Palmer station is 13 miles from 8t. Ignace! 
Thirty-two miles from St. Ignace are the 
second kilns of the Martel furnace compa- 
ny. This company is clearing about 1000 
acres per year and converting its timber 
into charcoal. 

Trout Lake statioi) is i'(J miles from 8t. 
Ignace. The soil is sandy and the timber 
largely pine and hemlock in the locality. 
To the west of the station a short distance 
are five lakes from .] to 1 mile in length 
which are full of troui and other fish. Deer 
and other game abound m the forests. 
These lakes are about 250 feet above Lake 
Huron. East of these Jakes is a belt of 
timbered land. The soil is a splendid clay 
marl. The wheat which took the first prize 
at the last state fair was grown in this sec- 
tion of the state. 

McMillan fiS miles from St. Ignace is 
the most promising town on the line of the 
road. The road at this point skirts the 
hard laud. For ] of a mile back from the 
road the land rises 100 feet and then is 
somewhat hilly. Between this and Lake 



Michigan isa belt of beautiful farminglaud, 

istique 
-^s long 

fest destiny into spiritual conquest, that monu- ^.^J2''' ^i^lY^^^ ??"^'-^ «^?P'"g ^^^ t^igh 



priest, who never dreamed of worldly honors, To the south and west are the Man is in ue 
shal keep this thought n the mind of a nation i^^kes the largest of which is six inilllloZ 
not too prone to translate the doctrine of mam- k„ f^„„ „.;^„ _.:ii ..i._ ... . "^*J^» /uug 



ment may weU be builded." I «? .Mirlv m«n ! ^^fj^^.^^t^t'^^^K^"^"""^" 

This association is officered by men of ^^uV^^^^ ^,^P'^ .^^^^^^ ^^f^, a wood 

means and culture, and it is confidently ^^/,^^/'''^^^\P/^,^^°^^^^ 

expected that ere long on some suitable spot !'I?^e'i^-^„J?,^«.^,«"^^^^^ bf°g r^Pidly 
. T. . , .. .. ., ^ ... '^ . settled, ana is destined soon to contain a 

large agricultural population. All kinds 

of vegetables grow in luxuriant abundance 

Six miles beyond McMillan is the northeast 



in the vicinity of the straits a monument 
will be erected which will appropriately 
commemorate the illustrious deeds of the 
humble missionary. 

The first event which gave new life and 
importance to St. Ignace was the election 
of the Mackinaw lumber company's mill. 
The second was the erection of the Martel 
furnace in anticipation of the early com- 
pletion of the Detroit, Mackinaw and Mar- 
quette railroad, but the main thing which 
has given new life aud importance to the 
town is the completion of this railroad. 
Already the amount of ore, telegraph poles, 
lies, square timber, etc., which is brought 
tfc> St, Ignace over this road for shipment 
is simply immense. 

The soil about St. Ignace is peculiar. 
It is a rocky, gravelly, rotten limestone 
formation which produces well- Vegeta- 
bles of very excellent quality are abundant. 
No curculio trouble the plums. Out five 
miles, beds of gypsum extend across the 
j)oiut. Ten miles up the road are the first 
kilns; on the east side of the track and just 
beyond is Moran station. Brevoort Lake, 



branch of the Manistique river. From this 
point the road runs through open marshes 
interspersed with sand ridges but all on ,a 
good grade toward the streams which are 
the diflerent branches of the Manistique. 
A large amount of good pine is found on 
these streams. At Munisy the' road rises 
on the water shed between lakes Michigan 
and Superior, which hugs the latter lake 
very closely through this portion of the 
peninsula. From this point to Manistique 
but little of interest presents itself except 
the very fine views of Lake Superior which 
frequently greet you as you are borne rap- 
idly along your journey. 

Xorth from St. Ignace is the blufT called 
Rabbit Sitting, and still further north Carp 
and Pine rivers which afford excellent 
piscatorial sport for the disciples of Isaac 
Walton. 



Mackinaw City. 



On the northern apex 
of the lower Peninsula 



famous for its fine fishing, is only two about eight miles distantjfrom from Mack- 



30 



ROUND ABOUT MAKINAC 



inac Island and five miles from St. Ignace, 
is located the historic "Mackinaw City' or 
Old Mackinaw as it is known in history. 

The first permanent white settlement at 
the straits as we have already seen was at 
St. Ignace in 1671 . This was thirty years 
before Cadillac founded Detroit. After the 
founding of Detroit, a dispute arose be- 
tween Cadillac and the Jesuits, the former 
insisting upon a concentration of French 
interests in the west at Detroit, the latter 
urging the French Gi-overnment to maintain 
its post at Mackinaw. The Jesuits did all 
in their power to prevent the Indians re- 
moving to Detroit while Cadillac held out 
every inducement to prevail upon them to 
desert their villages and settle in the vicin- 
ity of the new fort and so far succeeded, 
that in I706,the Jesuits became discouraged 
burned down their college and chapel and 
returned to Quebec. Within a few years 
however the fort was re-established or | 
rather a new fort was established at Old 
Mackinaw instead of St. Ignace. I 

But little is known of the history of this 1 
point from 1721 when it was visited by ! 
Father Charlevoix, the historian of New j 
France down to 1760 when the whole coun- 
try passed forever out of the hands of the 
Frencli into the hands of the English as the 
result of the bloody war which was brought 
to a close in the decisive victory, gained by 
the English over the French on the hights 
of Abraham at Quebec. 

The French and Indians had lived on 
terms of the greatest intimacy. They had 
slept in the same wigwams, joined in 
the same chase and shared the same 
privations, until the Indians had come 
to regard the French as their best friends. 
This being the case the Indians rose in 
arms to prevent the English from taking 
possession of the country. Under the 
Leadership of Pontiac all the tribes of the 
lake region were banded together for the 
purpose of exterminating the English at 
one blow. When the fatal blow was struck 
nine out of the twelve military posts scat- 
tered around the lakes were utterly de- 
stroyed, the fort at Old Mackinaw among 
the number. 

While Pontiac was the author of the gen- 
eral scheme by which his conspiracy was to 
be carried into effect, the particular plan by 
which Fort Michilimackinac was to be sur- 
prised and its garrison barbarously massa- 
cred, must have been born in the brain of 
some Mackinaw chieftain. According to 
this plan all the Indians gathered around 
the Fort, making themselves as friendly 
and agreeable as possible, in order to allay 
suspicion. This ingathering took place a 
few days prior to the 4th of June, which 
was the King's birthday. On that day, as 
if to celebrate the event, all the tribes joined 
in a game of bailor baggatiway just outside 
the Fort, for a high wager. This game was 



the most exciting sport in which the red 
men could engage. 

At the beginning of the game the main 
body of the players assemble half-way be- 
tween the two posts. Every eye sparkles 
and every cheek is already aglow with ex- 
citement. The ball is tossed high in the 
air, and a general struggle ensues to secure 
it as it descends. He who succeeds starts 
for the goal of the adversary holding it 
high above his head. The opposite party, 
with merry yells, are swift to pursue. His 
course is interrupted, and rather than see 
the ball taken from him, he, throws it, as 
the boy throws a stone from a sling, as far 
toward the goal of his adversary as he can. 
An adversary in the game catches it, and 
sends it whizzing back in the opposite di- 
rection. Hither and thither it goes ; now 
far to the right, now as far to tlie left; now 
near the one, now as near the other goal; 
the whole band crowding continually after 
it in the wildest confusion, until, "finally, 
some agile figure, more fleet of foot than 
others, succeeds in bearing it to the goal of 
the opposite party. 

Persons now living upon this island, who 
have frequently seen this game played by 
the Indians, and themselves participated in 
it, inform the writer that often a whole day 
is insufficient to decide the contest. When 
such is the case, the following day is taken, 
and the game begun anew. As many as 
six or seven hundred Indians sometimes 
engage in a single game, while it may be 
played by fifty. In the heat of the contest, 
when all are running at their greatest speed, 
if one stumbles and falls, fifty or a hundred 
who are in close pursuit and unable to stop, 
pile over him forming a mound of human 
bodies; and frequently players are so bruis- 
ed as to be unable to proceed in the game. 

This game, with its attendant noise and 
violence, was well calculated to divert the 
attention of officers and men, and thus per- 
mit the Indians to take possession of the 
fort. To make their success more certain, 
they prevailed upon as many as they could 
to come out of the fort, while at the same 
time their squaws wrapped in blankets, be- 
neath which they concealed the murderous 
weapons, were placed inside the inclosure. 
The plot was so ingeniously laid that no one 
suspected danger. The discipline of the 
garrison was relaxed, and the soldiers per- 
mitted to stroll about and view the sport 
without weapons of defense. And even 
when the ball, as if by chance, was lifted 
hieh in the air, to descend inside the pickets, 
and was followed by four hundred savages, 
all eager, all struggling, all shouting, in the 
unrestrained pursuit of a rude, athletic ex- 
ercise, no alarm was felt until the shrill 
war-whoop told the startled garrison that 
the slaughter had actually begun. 

Nearly the entire garrison was indiscrim- 
inately massacred after which the fort was 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC 



removed to the Island for greater protection 
against the Indians. 

Among those who miraculously escaped 
was Alexander Henry, an English trader, 
whose own account of the scenes through 
which he passed reads more like romance 
than truth. After the massacre and subse- 
•quent removal of the fort to the island, Old 
Mackinaw dropped almost entirely out of 
sight until about thirteen years ago, when 
Edgar Conklin removed to the straits, as 
narrated in our introductory, and began the 
work of building a city by constructing a 
good dock. A visit to this locality is of rare 
interest to the tourist, not so much for the 
magnificent proportions of the town as for 
the historical associations that cluster 
around it. 

Phohnunon About eighteen miles south 
l^lieuuygdll. ^nd east from Mackinaw 
City, and the same distance from Mackinac 
Island is Clieboygan- The town has a most 
advantageous location at the mouth of tlie 
Cheboygan river, and is growing rapidly. 
The number of buildings are said to have 
doubled within the last two years. The 
business interests of the town are repre- 
sented by eight saw mills, two planing 
mills, one shingle mill, one bank, twelve 
hotels, thirteen grocery and provision stores, 
twelve dry got)ds and clothing stores, five 
meat markets, three tailor- 
ing establishments, eight mil- 
linery stores, three hardware 
stores, four drug stores, three 
jewelryan<l btaiiouery stores, 
five barber shops.three foun- 
dry and machine shops, five 
wagon and blacksmith shops, 
two feed am) grif^t mills, two 
weekly newspapers and twen- 
ty-three saloons. 

The professions are repre- 
sented by nine lawyers, six 
physicians, several clergymen, 
two dentists, two photograpL- 
ic artists,and one ship-builder 

The saw mills turn out an- 
nually about 100,000,000 feet 
ot lumber. The logs from 
which this lumber is cut are 
brought down Cheboygan riv- 
er from the country drained 
by I lie net-work of lakes and 
rivers of which Cheboygan 
river is the outlet. About 
200,000 cedar posts, 200,000 
railroad ties, and 500,000 cubic 
feet of timber were cut during 
last winter, to be run down 
this river during the present 
spring and summer and ship- 
ped to outside markets, mainly 
to Chicago. 

Much of the land adjacent 
to Cheboygan is excellent 
for agricultural purposes, and 



31 

more attention is being paid toils cultiva- 
tion every year. There are almo?<t all vari- 
eties of soils, and timbers such as are 
found in the best agricultural sections of 
the state. 

Cheboygan has been for years the leading 
commercial city of the straits, and all 
things considered will doubtless remain 
such for some time to come at least. 

Among the curious and valuable posses- 
sions of the town are her fiowing wells. 
These wells are bored from twenty-five to 
seventy-five feet deep, when a pure cold 
vein of water is reached, which as soon as 
the auger is taken out spouts from three to 
tive feet above the ground. By being tubed 
the water will force itself much higher. 
These wells are conducive both to comfort 
and health. 

Cheboygan is the county seat of Cheboy- 
gan county, which was organized in 1853. 

Cheboygan River is the outlet of an ex- 
tensive system of lakes and rivers stretching 
from Cheboygan to within two or three miles of 
the head of Little Traverse Bay. A trip through 
this inland route on one of the small steamers 
constructed especially for the purpose, affords an 
immense amount of pleasure to the tourist As 
you leave the docks at the mouth of the river, 
you see on either side of you the fine business 
blocks and residences of the village. Half to 




INDIAN KlVEK. 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



three-fourth's of a mile above the starting point, 
you come to the extensive establishment of Mc- 
Arthur, Smith (fcCo., consisting of a large saw 
mill driven by water power, a grist mill, <tc., tfcc. 
The lock, dam and canal at this point were 
built by the Cheboygan slackwater navigation 
company several years ago, at a cost of $25,000. 
By means of the lock you are lifted up in the 
world about ten feet and proceed on your way 
up the river with no farther molestations of that 
kind . 

Klack River. Three miles above Cheboy- 
gan village the Black Kiver empties into the 




Cheboygan. Black River is the outlet of Black 
or Cheboygan Lake, which is about 12 miles 
from the junction of the two rivers This lake 
is six miles long and four wide. The rapids in 
Black river, a few miles below the lake, make it 
impossible for the small steamers, which run on 
these inland waters, to ^et into the lake. Sev- 
eral rivers of sufficient width and depth, for raft- 
ing purposes, empty into Black Lake. From the 
junction of the Black and Cheboygan rivers, you 
proceed on up the Cheboygan. Good farms 
are on either side of the river Six miles above 
Cheboygan village you enter Mullet Lake. 

Mullet Lake. This lake is 
twelve miles long and from five 
to eight miles wide It is full of 
fish and its shores abound in game. 
Pigeon, Indian and Sturgeon riv- 
ers empty into it. Several good 
hotels are located at different 
points around it. The Mackinaw 
Division of the Michigan Central 
railroad runs close along its north- 
west shores nearly its whole 
length. 

Iildiaii Kiver. After a ride 
of an hour and a half, you reach 
the head of the lake and enter In- 
dian river. The country along 
this river does not equal that along 
Cheboygan river for agricultural 
purposes. The scenery, however, 
is beautiful. Indian river is five 
miles in length. It is crossed by 
the Michigan Central railroad a 
short distance above Mullet lake. 
i Burt Lake. Proceeding up 

^ Indian River you soon reach Burt 
Lake. This,too,is a beautiful body 
5 of water. It is ten miles long by 
4 five wide, the length extending 

2 north and south. You enter the 

3 lake near the southern extremity. 
Crooked, Maple and Sturgeon riv- 
ers, all large streams, pour their 
waters lavishly into it Maple 
river is the outlet of Douglass lake 
which lies two miles north or Burt 
lake . Crooked river is the outlet 
of Crooked lake, of which you will 
learn more as you proceed. You 
cross Burt lake in a north-westerly 
direction and enter Crooked river 
which is seven miles in length. 
The journey up this river takes 
you in a south-westerly direction. 
The scenery along the river is 
picturesque Crooked lake is five 
miles in length. This lake Is fa- 
mous for its excellent bass fishing 
and the numerous delightful local- 
ities along its shores for camping 
places. A sportsman writes as 
follows with reference to this lake 
and its surrotmdings : 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



33 



I cannot begin to do this lovely lakelet 
jnstice: suffice it to say that we found it 
beautifully located in the forest primeval, 
with only a patch of new clearing upon 
the banks and one small house at its toot 
— a very gem in a silver scttinir. 

"Fastening ourbott to the limb of a 
fallen tree, we proceeded to catch a sup- 
ply of minnows. After which— having 
rigged lines ready for business before 
leaving shore -we thought it time to see 
if any bass were around. I put on a min- 
now.raade a cast, and the bait had scarce 
got out of sight ere it was taken with a 
rush. Four casts succeeded, and iu rapid 
succession, four tine bass came out to in- 
terview me. .\fter securiug eleven from 
that tree top, we unhitched and paddled 
to another part of the lake, taking them, 
fish where we might. Right there we 
camped a fortnight, making our camp as 
comforable as could be and enjoying one 
constant dream of delight. Fifty rods 
from camp we could catch all the min- 
nows we wanted — enticing them by 
means of some bait placed in a landing 
net — and turning to the other side of the 
boat and casting into deeper water.capture 
bass in the greatest profusion. They 
were so thick that we caught all needed 
in an hour a day, and even then returned 
to the water all lish weighing less than 
two and a half pounds. We had grand 
sport, for the black bass is really a game 
fish. We also enticed Irom their native 
element several pickerel, which averaged 
eight pounds each. 

''Around this lake we observed a num- 
ber of American eagles circling, and, one 
dav from my perch iu the top of a tree, I 
shot one of the glorious birds of freedom. i 
I hurried to the boat with my prize, but j 
had hardly started when another came ( 
whirling in the air above, and seizing my ' 
gun I let lly the No. S's, and by all that's t 
holy, fetched him to the ground. Whew ! | 
two American eagles in five minutes 1 ! ! ; 
How big we felt 1 I've chased the An- 
telope over the plains and shot them with 
my Winchester rifle; stalked deer and 
elK in the mountain parks of Colorado. 
and hunted buffalo on the vast prairies of 
Kansas, but 1 do not think I ever felt so 
exhilarated as then. The next morning my 
companions declared I was muttering in 
my sleep "American Eagles!— one flying! 
No. 8's!' etc. 

"At the end of the fortnight we struck 
tents and departed silently but happy. 
The time had passed like a dream of 
blissful contentment — aye, a summer 
night's dream. Think of this, ye who 
fish for suckers and cattish in the swamp 
streams of Indiana.and iu the roily waters 
of the Kankakee — the experience of one 
who has cast his line in the sunny South, 
in the streams of the far West, and in our 
own beautiful Michigan, reads like a very 
fairy tale. 

"No flies to bother you as up in Canada 
— no 'sketters nor any no-see'ems — noth- 
ing to mar the pleasures — no hot, stifling 
nights— no clammy dews— no dank mias- 
ma creeping into the system ; but rest- 
sweet sleep at night and a dreamy exis- 
tence by day. 

"What wonder, then, tkat the fisher- 
man who has visited Northern Michigan 
loves to dream of the halcyon time, and 
ai:ain looks forward to the lovely June 
days when the trout riseth to the fly 
on the waters, and the worm sciuirmeth 
in anticipation of the hungry fish that 
lieth waiting under some log for just such 
a juicy fellow; when the grayling striketh 
hard and sharp for your bait, and waiteth 
for the disciple of Izaak in the Sturgeon 
and Pigeou Rivers; while in every running river— in I —let it be frog, mouse, minnow, Dobson's hell-gramite, 
every crystal lake— the gamey black bass jumpeth for or any other thing, 
whatever bait may be oflered on the invitingly sharp hook | "In a word, if you want to enjoy a good time.take your 




34 



ROUND ABOUT MACKINAC. 



wife and some fishing tackle and go north, and on my 
faith as a follower of the gentle Izaak Walton, you will 
come home younger and better for your trip, and unless 
very hard to please, will have found some warm friends 
among the hospitable Michigan ders." 

At the head of Crooked Lake is Conway 
Springs. This is the terminas of the Bay View 
and Crooked Lake Railroad. If you so desire 
you may now proceed by rail a distance of only 
four or five miles, and within a half hour land 
at Bay View or Petoskey, at the head of Little 
Traverse Bay. Daily lines of steamers run through 
this inland route, making close connections at 
Conway Springs for Bay View and Petoskey. and 
at Cheboygan for Mackinac Island, Mackinaw 
City and St. Ignace 

From Mackinac Westward, f^om 

Mackinac westward through the Straits is most 
enjoyable. As you leave the island you are more 
than ever charmed with its beauty. As seen from 
the Straits a mile away, it is a perfect gem. A 
finer natural subject for an artist's pencil could 
not easily be found on the continent. The ab- 
ruptness of its shores, the boldness of its rocks, 
the beauty of its evergreens, the antiquity of the 
town that nestles under the bluffs around its har- 
bor, the white walls of the fort situated on the 
brow of the bluff just above the town, all conspire 
to make the picture one of rare interest and beauty. 

Turning your back reluctantly upon the island, 
you take a hasty survey of your surroundings. 
To the right is East Moran Bay, around which 
the enterprising village of St Ignace is located. 
To the left is what is known as the South Chan- 
nel, stretching away between Bois Blanc Island 
and the main land as far as the eye can reach. 
Before you is the entrance to Lake Michigan, or 
Lake Illinois, as it was formerly called. As you 
pass through between the Upper and Lower 
Peninsulas of Michigan, some speculative ques- 
tions trouble you. Will this channel be bridged 
or tunnelled, or will the unnumbered ages and 
generations yet to inhabit these two beautiful 
peninsulas always depend upon ferry boats? 
These questions furnish ample scope for ani- 
juated discussions. Three miles west of Point 
St. Ignace is POINT LA BARBE, a noted head- 
land, and three miles northwest is WEST 
3I0RA.N BAY, where there is a small, scattered 
^settlement of whites and half-breeds. GROSS 
VAP is a bold promontory situated near WEST 
MORAN BAY and fifteen miles northwest of 
Mackinac Island. 

The Island of St. Helena is a low island, thir- 
teen miles west of Mackinac and north of the 
main channel of commerce. It has a good har- 
bor, and a lighthouse to guide the mariner through 
the Straits. 

Woiinnchfinpo ^^^^ *^® western end of 
WdUyUblldllLC. tiie Straits of Mackinaw 
is the Waugoshance lighthouse . This is a very 
important light. It is built on the Waugoshance 
shoal, and is some distance from land. About 
twelve years ago the foundation of this structure 
became insecure through the constant action of 
the waters, and the government expended a large 
sum of money in repairs. A coffer-dam was con- 
structed about the light and the water pumped 
out, leaving the shoal on which it stands dry. A 



circle of solid masonry was then built up around 
the light of suflScient strength to stand during all 
time to come, if any earthly structure can stand 
that long. The stones used were flat, and from 
six to ten feet across . These were laid in cement 
and bolted together with large iron bolts 

On some accounts the business of lighthouse 
keeping is desirable. It is not excessively hard 
work. The lighthouse keeper is not much troub- 
led with disagreeable neighbors. He lives in 
absolute freedom from rniasmas, mosquitos, con- 
gestive fevers, interrnittents., calomel, live?- dis- 
eases, jaundice, cholera morbus dyspepsia, blue 
DEVILS and duns. 

Prncc Williino ^.bout ten miles distant from 
UlUbS VHI«y"« Waugoshance lighthouse in 
a southerly direction is the historical town of 
Cross Village This is one of the oldest towns in 
northern Michigan, having been settled by the 
Indians long before Mackinac. The town is 
beautifully located on the high table-land over- 
looking the bay, and contains a population of 
about 400 people, mainly Indians. The country 
surrounding it is unexcelled for agricultural pur- 
poses. No finer potatoes can be produced on the 
continent than grow in the sandy soil of this re- 
gion. Fruit of all kinds is also abundant. The 
moment your boat touches the dock, if in season, 
squaws offer you wild berries at prices which 
astonish you 

The most noticeable feature of the town, so 
far as buildings are concerned, is the large con- 
vent built on an eminence just above the village. 
The aim of this is the education of the poor chil- 
dren of the surrounding country . We visited this 
institution about twelve years since and were 
greatly interested in what we saw. The convent 
contains an immense auditorium, which is so 
arranged that the audience, made up mainly of 
the people of the village, the choir, which is in 
the gallery opposite the pulpit, the monks seated 
by themselves , and the nuns also seated by them- 
selves, can each see the oflBciating priest,while nei- 
ther can see the other. The building was so con- 
structed that the nuns could do washing, cooking, 
etc., etc., without even coming in sight of the male 
portion of the establishment. Father Wycamp, 
who had charge of the enterprise, took great 
pleasure in showing our party through the build- 
ing and over the premises . Among other places 
to which he conducted us was a small building a 
little distance from the main building, where he 
made it a rule to spend some time each day in 
meditation. A collection of human skulls and 
other similar relics had been gathered together 
in this building, while underneath the floor 
in the center of the building was an empty 
grave, which the Reverend Father had dug with 
his own hands. The object of the grave was both 
remote and immediate. Remotely, it was designed 
by the Reverend Father as his own final resting- 
place, but immediately, it was intended, with the 
liberal collection of skulls and other human bones, 
to turn his meditations into the right channel. 
MiHHIa \/!llona is situated on the shores of 
miUUm VllldyB Lake Michigan, about 12 
miles from Cross Village, or half way from Cross 
Village to Little Traverse Bay. The town con- 
tains a few small houses and a mission church. 



i 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION, 




■HE section of country 
about Little Traverse 
Bay was first laid off 
into counties in 1840. 
The two counties nearest 
the bay were named re- 
^IF spectively,Tonedegenaand 
|[*> Kishkonko. In 1843 these 
names were chan"^ed to Em- 
met and Charlevoix, but the coun- 
ties were not fully organized un- 
til several years later. A Mor 
mon writer gives the following 
account of the Indian population 
of the county in 1854: 

Indian Population of Em- 

_. _x There arc in Emmet five Indian 

Ulcla villages:— Garden Island. Cross 
Village, Middle Village, Le Arbor Croche, 
and Bear Village, containing in all a popu- 
lation of about two thousand. 

The Garden Island Indians formerly re- 
sided on the north end of Beaver Island, 
and have removed to Garden within six 
years. A majority of the males and many 
of the females can read, and some of them 
write in their own language. Very few, 
none but the children, speak English. They 
are skillful fishermen, and pay some at- 
tention to agriculture and the mechanic 
arts. A few years ago they were excessive- 
ly dissipated; but now, owing to the sup- 
pression of the liquor trade, are sober and 
industrious. They are in better circum- 
stiiuces than any other band in the State. 

A Roman Catholic Priest visits them once 
a year. They have a church, and are very 
devout In the absence of the Priest, one 
of the head men reads service. A few, how- 
ever, remain Pagans. 

Cross Village lies on the ton of a high 
blurt', at the bottom of the broad Bay, South 
of Point Waugo-shance. A Roman Cath- 
olic Priest resides there, who receives his 
support from the United States, under the 
character of a school teacher. The Indians 
at Cross Village are considerable farmers, 
and keep many horses and some cattle. 
They are respectable workmen at house 
building, boat building and coopering, and 
have a saw mill. Changing frequently from 
well constructed houses to the hunter's 
camjj, pulmonary diseases prevail. 

Middle Village is on the bluff back of Isle 
le Galet (8killagalee) light house, and is 
much such a place as Cross Village. 

Near the head of Little Traverse, and 
upon a splendid harbor tbat makes up in 





quantities of corn and potatoes for sale, and, besides th 
business and employments common among the Indians, 
have a well built vessel of thirty or forty tons burthen, 
constructed, owned and navigated by themselves. 

Bear Village is on the South side of Little Traverse, aiJd 
is an out station of Le Arbor Croche. Its agriculture is 
considerable. All these villages are engagca in fishing 



er- 
quantities lor domestic use, ana aunng me winter 
more or less are taken through the ice. 

Tho Raw I-iittle Traverse Bay isabout 
I ne Ddy. ^ miies long. At its mouth 
it is about six miles wide, buc its undu- 
lating shores gradually approach each other 



36 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION. 




r 



until they are only two miles apart when 
they turn upon a common centre and form 
the head of the bay in a half circle. The 
bay is enclosed by high table lands or high- 
er hills that approach the water in a suc- 
cession of natural terraces or abrupt bluffs. 
These terraces and bluffs have apparently 
been crowded back from the water's edge 
by the formative process, arranging them- 
selves into one vast amphitheatre, having 
an elevation of 200 feet above the surface 
of the bay. 

PptncUpv ^^ ^^^ south side, and not 
rciuoivcy. more than two miles from 
the head of the bay at the foot of high ' Lake, empties into the bay at this point. 



bluffs, yet at an elevation of 
about 50 feet above the wa- 
ter, is that modern town of 
rapid growth, called in hon- 
or of an aged Indian, who 
now resides in the outskirts 
of the town, Petoskey. A 
more romantic location for 
a town could scarcely be 
imagined 

Chas. Hallock, Esq , thus 
speaks of it : 

"If we are out in a boat on the 
bay and look in toward the land, we 
perceive that Petoskey occupies a 
series of picturesque undulations that 
spread out on either hand, and rises 
to the rear in the form of an amphi- 
theatre. A lofty limestone cliff flanks 
. the town on the west. Its top is 
CO crowned with trees, among which 
J-; are discovered the tents of many va- 
r^ cation tourists who are ''camping 
Q out." Behind them rises an over- 
Hr< topping eminence, dotted with pre- 
tentious villas of wealthy residents. 
From the verge of this cliff the out- 
look is superb. Across, five miles 
distant, is the ridge of hills that line 
the opposite side of the Little Traverse 
Bay. These sweep round in a sym- 
metrical curve to the head of the bay 
two miles to the right, and then fol- 
low the hither shore until they rise 
and terminate in the cliff' on which 
we stand. 

•'AH along in that direction, as far 
as sight can reach, we can trace the 
white line ot the pebbly shore limned 
against the green of the hills; and 
then from the base of our cliff" in a 
sweep of two miles or more to the 
left in the form of a crescent, ending 
in a wooded point. Tree-covered 
hills slope gently back and upward 
from the beach, and pretty cottages 
peep out from among their branches. 
The principal part of the town lies in 
the bowl of the amphitheatre, from 
which a practicable road leads 
through a ravine to the long pier 
which projects from the hollow of the 
crescent into the bay. This pier 
gives additional character and life to 
the scenery. 

"Petoskey offers consiaerable at- 
trai_tl(juff to suiumer vititurs who may 
dcbire to make it headquarters lor side 
excursions. For local out-of-door 
amusemeuts there are boating, sail- 
ing, bathing, and fishing in the bay; 
walks and iuvestigntious along the 
beach ; picnics iu the groves ; drives 
to Bear Lake, Round Lake and 
Crooked Lake— all of which contain 
bass and pickerel; and hourly excursions by steamer 
across the bay to Harbor Springs, an Indian res- 
ervation, where the red man luxiuiates after his own red 
fashion. The city of Petoskey honors the name of one 
of the high-toned of these aboriginals, who still lives and 
occupies a large two-story frame house near the mouth of 
the Bear River, on the outskirts of the town." 

Petoskey has a water front of about one 
and one-half miles and extends inland about 
the same distance. It has a population of 
about 2,500, is six years old, is growing rap- 
idly, is well supplied with hotels, schools, 
churches and miscella neous business places; 
has ajgoodlsyste m of walei|wciks, &c., &c. 

Bear Creek, which is the outlet of Bear 



H 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION. 



37 



The current of the stream 
is very rapid, affording ex- 
cellent water power for 
manufacturing purposes. 

Ddy view, Giove and 
Martha's Vineyard of tlie 
north, combined in one, is 
but a short distance from 
Petoskey. Of the histor3s 
purposes and prospects of 
the association, which owns 
this resort, Rev. S. Reed, 
the Sect. , writes as follows: 
The Methodists in Michigan, 
after thoroughly examining all 
points offered to them as a 
site for a State Camp Ground 
and Summer Residence ac- 
cepted from the Grand Kap- 
ids and Indiana railroad com- 
pany a tract of land lying at 
the head of Little Traverse 
Bay, from one to two miles 
from the village of Petoskey. 
The selection has proved to be 
a very fortunate one, and the 
two-fold purpose had in view is being fully realiz- 
ed. Though but six years have passed since its 
location it has become remarkably popular with 
western people, while increasing numbers from 
the more southern states are seeking the benefits 
it affords. 





BPEAEEB S STAND, BAY VIEW 



BAILKOAD STATION, BAY VIEW. 

The Michigan Camp Ground Association now 
numbers over ;^00 members and the number is 
increasing every year. Nothing but a good mor- 
al character is required as a test of membership, 
and the membership fee which is $10. Each 
member is entitled to select and hold by lease 
two lots on the ground, the an- 
nual rent for which is ^o per lot. 
Special accommodations in trav- 
el to and from Bay View are giv- 
en to the members and their 
families by presentation of cer- 
tificate from the secretaryby near- 
ly all railroads of the state, while 
to the public round trip tickets 
have thus far been sold at one 
fare during the sessions of the 
camp meetings. 

The Association owns in fee 
simple 360 acres of land extend- 
ing about one and one-fourth miles 
along the beach and half a mile 
back. The land rises from the 
bay in natural terraces which 
afford delightful sit«s for resi- 
dences. More than half the land 
has been platted into lots, and over 
250 lots have already been leased. 
On about half of these, cottages 
are already built. Thus far the 
cost of the cottages varies from 
*-J0O to SIOOO, while they vary 
still more widely in style, some 
being quite ornate and others 
characteristically plain. 

The Bay View hotel and audi- 
torium, and a large number of the 
cottages are supplied with water 
through pii^es from a cold and 
never failing spring that issues 
from a hillside 60 to 70 feet 



38 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION 




SUMMEK COTTAGE AT BAY TIEW. 

above the platted grounda. The pipes can easily 
be extended to other parts of the grounds. This 
spring, called Pisgah spring, is of inestimable 
yalue to the encampment. 

But it is needless to enlarge upon the points 
that combine to make Bay View the most at- 
tractive Christian summer home in all the north- 
west. The bay itself is a gem of beauty; the 
ground, delightful ; climate, healthful ; air, pure ; 
water, excellent ; expenses, reasonable ; forests, 
grand ; material, abundant ; access, convenient ; 
depot and dock, on the ground ; daily boats and 
trains ; rates, reduced ; lots, large ; rents, small ; 
society, good ; membership,increasing ; privileges, 
abundant ; government firm yet sufficiently flexi- 
ble ; plans, far reaching contemplating nothing 
temporary but permanent, valuable, safe. 

The present officers of the Association are : 
President — S. O. Knapp, Esq., Jackson, Mich.; 
First Vice-President — Rev.A.P.Moors, Coldwater, 
Mich.; Second Vice-President, Kev. W. H. Shier, 
Flint, Mich.; Secretary— Rev. S. Eeed, Owosso, 
Mich. ; Treasurer — D.Preston, Esq., Detroit, Mich. 

By Laws of the Association and any needed 
information will be cheerfully furnished on appli- 
cation to the secretary. 

Uarhni* Qnmnnc On the north side of 
naruor springs, ^i^e bay, and about 
four miles distant from Petoskey and Bay 
View, is located the little Village of Harbor 
Springs, formerly Little Traverse- This is 
the county seat of Emmet county. The 
village is located on a beautiful harbor 
formed by Harbor Point, a narrow penin- 
sula, projecting into the Bay and enclosing 
a surface of a mile in length and half a mile 
in width. It is this small bay that gives 
the place its Indian name of We-que-ton- 
sing, a name since appropriated by one 
of the adjacent resorts. 

The harbor shore is a pebbly beach.washed 
by waters of such crystal purity that fish 
and other objects are plainly visible upon 
the bottom at a depth of from thirty to fifty 
feet. All along the water's edge are large 
springs, from which gush streams of water 
as clear as air, and only twelve or fourteen 
degrees above the freezing point. Had the 
Spanish explorer who searched the wilder- 



ness of Florida for the myth- 
ical fountain of perpetual 
youth turned his attention in 
this direction, his search would 
not have been entirely in vain. 
The health-renewing properties 
of these waters are almost mar- 
velous. Many visitors to this lo- 
cality ascribe their rapid im- 
provement in health and 
strength as much to the purity 
of these waters as to the well- 
known bracing and exhilarat- 
ing effects of the atmosphere. 

The land rises from the water 
lome ten or fifteen feet, and is 
then almost perfectly level, thus 
making an unrivaled location 
for the business portion of the town. Back of 
this flat, parallel to, and at a distance of 
from fifty to sixty rods from the beach, rises 
an abrupt bluff, seventy-five or a hundred 
feet in height. This is followed by a sec- 
ond plateau, diversified by a succession of 
terraces, affording fine building sites for 
residences. A small trout brook, starting 
from springs at the foot of the bluff, winds 
its way across the lower flat ana flows into 
the harbor. 

Harbor Springs is so situated that the 
raw winds are excluded by the hills, and 
the warm land breeze tempered by passing 
over several miles of water. This accounts 
for the fact that the mercury invariably 
indicates greater regularity here than at 
any point in the vicinity where observa- 
tions have ever been made. 

The authentic as well as the legendary 
history of the place is full of interest. 
Pieces of ancient crockery have been found 
here, indicating that it was once a stopping 
place frequented by the extinct race of 
Mound Builders, on their journeys from 
Mexico to the Lake Superior mines. For 
ages it has been a camping ground for the 
Indians, for whom it was well situated, its 
harbor being secure and abounding in fish. 
At the time of Marquette, the principal 
village of the Ottawas was L'Arbre Croche. 
It is said that they were finally induced to 
leave that place and establish themselves 
at Harbor Springs by the advice of a Cath- 
olic priest, who may have seen, with pro- 
phetic eye, the future importance of the 
place. It was something' like seventy or 
eighty years ago that a rude church was 
erected and used as a place of worship for a 
number of years, until the present structure 
took its place. Gradually the bark lodges 
and wigwams gave place to substantial 
cabins, and savage barbarism to a fair de- 
gree of civilization and enlightenment. For 
many years this was a central point for the 
payment of annuities, and was a trading 
post only exceeded in importance by Mack- 
inac. 
The march of civilization has not yet 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION. 



39 



effaced the marks of its occupancy by the 
Indians. There are many Indian residents 
left, the oldest of whom retain all the 
marked characteristics of their race. Here 
and there are dilapidated block houses, 
roofed with bark and fenced with palisades. 
Many of the original feasts and ceremonies 
of the tribe are still observed. There are 
many curious legends concerning the place, 
one of the most weird of which relates to 
Devil's Pond, an innocent-looking pool near 
the portage of Harbor Point, where the 
Indians solemnly believe the Bad Spirit 
dwelt UHtil frightened away by the noise of 
the white man's saw mill. 

The scenery in the vicinity of Harbor 
Springs is beautiful. From the bluff one 
sees at his feet a picturesque village, the 
marked contrast between the old and new 
buildings bearing mute testimony to the 
the unequal struggle between the races. 
Next is the harbor. No lovelier sheet of 
water ever reflected in its placid bosom the 
drifting clouds and silent stars. Every tree 
and leaf-embowered cottage of Harbor 
Point, and every tint of foliage, is mirrored 
wiih perfect distinctnese, while the deep- 
ening shadows upon the water so blend 
with the shade of the shore that the divid- 
ing line is scarcely discernible. Beyond is 
the open bay, occasionally undisturbed save 
by long, unbroken swells, but usually touch- 
ed with here and there a dash of white, and 
at times tossing and foaming as though en- 
raged, filling the harbor with the winged 
messengers of commerce seeking shelter 
from the gale. The encompassing shores 
rise in a succession of wooded hills, rolling 
far back inland, and becoming more and 
more shadowy and indistinct, until, seen 
through the haze of a summer's day, the 
furthest summit thirty miles away, seems 
but a cloud of smoke. Bay Tiew looks out 
from the trees of the opposite shore, Petos- 
key lies spread out upon the hillside, and 
to the right is the broad expanse of Lake 
Michigan, bounded only by the horizon. 

The summer visitor will find here a vari- 
ety of amusements. The roads are good for 
a new country, and afford pleasant drives. 
The fishing in the harbor is excellent, and 
the most unskillful angler can secure large 
strings of fine palatable fish. Being com- 
pletely land-locked, it gives amateur yachts- 
men and boatmen an opportunity to enjoy 
a row or sail with perfect security. The 
beach is strewn with pebblen, among which 
are found many fine specimens, including 
beautiful agates and curious petref actions. 
The surf of the bay and the quiet harbor, 
each in its way, is unsurpassed for bathing. 
On one side of the village is Harbor 
Point, and on the other is We-que-ton-sing 
resort. Both are reached by a short row or 
walk, and their presence adds much to the 
desirability of the place as a summer home. 
Among the principal attractions for tour- 
ists is the Indian church, time-worn and 



weather-beaten, the interior showing the 
distinctive traits of savagery which religion 
has failed to eradicate, and the church-yard 
filled with the departed brave and good, in 
whose remembrance the wooden crosses 
and headboards are each year decorated 
with wreaths of gaudy, artificial flowers. 

The accommodations for visitors have 
been greatly increased and will no doubt 
be fully adequate to the wants of all who 
may visit this delightful resort. The vil- 
lage is connected with the outer world by a 
telegraph line, and the railroad is in process 
of construct i(ni . 




Wp niiP tnn Qinn This beautiful resort 
V¥e-que-lOn-bmg. belongs to an associ- 
ation of Presbyterians organized in 1878, 
and is located on the north side of Little 
Traverse Bay, one mile east of Harbor 
Springs. 

The grounds, consisting of eighty acres, 
were formally opened to the public July 17, 
1878, when Hon. Schuyler Colfax delivered 

[ his famous address on Abraham Lincoln. 

The object of the association is to im- 
prove and make attractive its grounds, for 
the use t>f its members and their guests 
who wish a pleasant, healthful and inex- 
pensive place to spend the summer months. 
The hotel, erected in 187S, has been im- 
proved and greatly enlarged, affording bet- 
ter accommodations than in 1880, when the 
manager could scarcely furnish rooms to all 
applicants. The grounds have been thor- 

I oughly cleaned, and walks and drives laid 
out. There are a score or more of cottages 
now upon the grounds. Approaching this 
resort by water, a picture of exceeding 
beauty lies before vou. The ground riseg 



40 



THE LITTLE TRAVERSE REGION. 



in gentle terraces and is covered with a 
luxuriant grow th of tree?. 

What a comfort for a tired workman to 
lie in a hammock under the trees, and read, 
or look up at the lace-work which the leaves 
and branches embroider against the sky, or 
out over the bay— beautiful at all times and 
glorious in some moods. 

" How sweet to dwell, unvexed with care and strife. 
Where no rude sound disturbs the tranquil dream, 
The sacred calm on earth and azure lying; 
Where mellowed murmur? of each laughing stream 
That glances wanton in the glistening beam, 
Tlie wood bowers wakened to a soft replying, 
Or hushed, as listening to thy farewell sighing, 
AH weave enchanted dream." 

The resort takes its name from that given 
by the Indians to the small bay upon which 
the village of Harbor Springs is located. 
The new association starts out with a capi- 
tal stock of $.5,000, with nower to increase 
to $10,000. The stock, which has been read- 
ily taken, Is divided into shares of $25 
each, and no person is permitted to take 
less than one, nor more than eight shares. 
Four shares entitle a person to one lot, and 
eight shares to two lots, free from future 
assessments. 

The financial condition of the new associ- 
ation is quite flattering; its grounds, hotel 
and other property are free from debt, and 
it has $3,500 to place in its treasury when- 
ever called for. Its object is to more fully 
carry out the plans of the old association. 
It is of a private character, its stock being 
sold only to such persons as are approved 
of its Board of Directors, and it can be 
transferred only with their consent. 
Uorhni* Pnin-f The Harbor Point Asso- 
ndl UOr ruini. elation owns a tract of 
land which seems particularly adapted by 
nature for a summer resort. It adjoins the 
village of Harbor Springs, and comprises 
some fifty acres, jutting out into the bay 
for a mile, and being sixty rods in width at 
the base, and narrowing gradually to a few 
rods in width at the apex in the bay. The 
land is high and rolling, and is covered with 
a fine growth of beautiful young trees, 
forming a park which, for natural beauty, 
is rarely excelled. On either side the beach 
is covered with clean white sand, and gently 
slopes to the water's edge. On one side 
the water is quiet, and for many feet 
from the shore is shallow, thus affording 
excellent facilities for boating and still 
bathing. On the other side a beautiful surf 
is almost incessantly rolling, formed by a 
full sweep from the clear and sparkling 
waters of the lake as they roll into the bay, 
and here is surf bathing unsurpassed any- 
where unless ir, be at some of the favorite 
ocean resorts. 

Thus situated, the grounds of the Harbor 




Point Association afford a delightful water- 
front of over two miles in extent, and being 
nearly surrounded by water, it is always 
cool and comfortable. 

During the brief time which has elapsed, 
since the asssociation was formed exten- 
sive improvements have been made to 
their property. About one-half of the tract 
has been platted and laid out into circu- 
itous walks and drives; a fine hotel has 
been erected, and several handsome cot- 
tages already adorn the grounds. 

The capital stock of the association is 
$10,000, the most of which has already been 
sold. The stock is sold only in shares of 
$100, which entitles the owner to the use of 
a lot for a cottage, and board at the hotel at 
as near cost as may be deemed consistent 
by the Board of Directors. 

About $10,500 have been expended in im- 
proving the grounds and building cottages. 
This association is of a private character, 
its stock being sold only to such persons as 
are approved by the Board, and transferred 
only with their consent, the design being 
to make the resort such that all the stock- 
holders with their families, may be gath- 
ered together into one circle, and surround- 
ed with the sacredness and purity of home. 

The hotel will be open for the reception 
of such as may desire a delightful retreat 
under these auspices ; and we promise that 
the means of enjoyment there are legion. 

The distances are: Four miles to Petos- 
key (across the bay) ; one mile to tlae Pres- 
byterian resort; and half a mile to Little 
Traverse village. 



CH A R L E V O I X, 









w 



r^!': 






IGHTEEN miles 
■l&iKiSSI"' "'^st and south 
; l^alis) from Petoskey, 
on the shores of 
Lake Michigan, is lo- 
cated the charming vil- 
lage of Charlevoix. It 
is reached by steamer 
from Traverse City or 

Petoskey or by stage ride of 

six miles from Boyne Falls. 

on the Grand Rapids and 

Indiana Railroad to Boyne 

City, at the head of Pine Lake, 

and thence bj' small steamer 

through Pine and Round 

Lakes and Pine River. The 

location of the village on 

both banks of Pine River, 

and on the high bluffs over- 
looking Lake Michigan is 

most delightful. Pine River 

is one of the shortest streams 

in the world, reaching only 

from Round Lake to Lake 

Michigan, a distance of not 

more than a half mile, but is 

sufficiently broad and deep 

to permit the passage of the 

largest lake vessels into the 

beautiful inland lakes that 

lie just back of the village 

The citizens of the village 

have always shown a com- 
mendable pride in the de- 
velopment of its industries, 

the care of their homes, the 

religious and educational cul- 
ture of their families, and 

the general attractions of the 

place The markets and 

stores are well stocked with 

the necessaries and luxuries 

of life. The village is not so 

small as to cut one off from 

the comforts of life, or so 

large as to be cursed with a 

rowdy element that might 

prove very annoying to those 

who desire quiet for rest and recreation. It an area of noi nmrt- uuui .ti acres, lying about 

may be thought a disadvantage that the place is midway between Lake Michigan and Pine Lake. 

without direct railroad communication, but this It is connected with the fnrmer by Pine River. 

inconvenience is compensated for by the fact and with the latter by an artificial channel wide 

that the town is spared the influx of immoral enough and deep enough to admit the e!sy pas- 

and otherwise disturbing elements that never fail sage of the largest lake vessels Pine Lake is a 

to haunt the villages and towns along the line of beautiful sheet of water stretchin-j east and 

the railroads. ' south to tlie distance of some 20 miles About 

Round Lake is a small body of water covering five miles out the lake divides into two arms, the 




42 



CHARLEVOIX. 




MAIN STEEET, OHA.ELEVOIX. 

south arm extending as its name implies, south 
to the distance of some 16 miles. Into the finger 
end of the south arm flows the Jordan River of 
which we shall learn more further on. 

The scenery about these lakes is grand. lu 
1865, long before any one ever thought of locat- 
ing a summer resort in this locality, Prof. Win- 
chell, then State Geologist, in one of his publish- 
ed reports said : 

"From the foot of Pine Lake a scene of surpassine 
loveliness presents itself. "We land, perhaps, upon the 
wharf at tbe month of Pine river. Before us is a sandy 
slope, on the left of which we discover the usual fea- 
tures of a new settlement. Beyon . is the forest. It is 
a pleasant October morning, however, and we follow 
the well-beaten road through the fresh clearings which 
stretch out for about a mile inland. We emerge from a 
screen of forest trees and find ourselves standing upon 
an elevated bluft' overlooking as lovely a sheet of water as 
the sun ever shone upon. You feel almost a transport of 
delight in emerging so suddenly from the depths of the 
habitual forest iuto a prospect so vast, so gentle in its fea- 
tures, so delicate in its tints, and so glowing in the sun- 
shine of a fair October morning. Far away to the south- 
east, for fifteen miles, stretches the placid, smiling surface 
of the water, its white and pebbly shore chasing the con- 
tour of the hills in all its meandering sinuosities. The 
verdant ridges rise on every side from the shining shore 
line, and hold the lake in their enchanted embrace, while 
rounded hill-tops bubble up in rapid succession across 
the retiring landscape, till hill, vale, and sky, green, pur- 
ple and blue, dissolve together in the blended hues of 
the distant horizon. 

Charlevoix Summer JKesort. Between 
Round and Pine Lakes and south of the main 
channel which connects them, is located the 
Charlevoix Summer Resort The grounds of the 
resort comprise about 75 acres, and rise by three 
natural and well-defined terraces from Pine Lake. 
The two lower terraces are sufficiently wide for 
cottage lots, with a broad walk in front, while the 
upper terrace stretches far away in a level plat- 
teau, from which glimpses of Lake Michigan are 



obtained . More than half of the 
tract is cleared land, other parts 
being thinly wooded, and the por- 
tion farthest from the water being 
covered with heavy timber, while 
in the rear of the whole the dense 
woods extend to a great distance. 
A handsome hotel has been erected 
on an eligible site from which a 
charming view of the bright blue 
waters reaching away to the south- 
east is obtained. A goodly num- 
ber of beautiful cottages also stand 
upon the terraces overlooking the 
lake. A music hall ,30x.50 feet, a 
bowling alley 80 feet long, side- 
walks, fences, &c., &c., have been 
built this season An f 800 piano 
has been placed in the Music Hall. 
The company owning this resort 
was organized on the 21st day of 
May, 1878, under the statute laws 
of Michigan. ^ 



BOARD OF DIRECTORS. 

President, P. Ranney. 

Vice President. D. B. Merrill. 

Secretary, G. E. Bardeen, of Kala- 
mazoo. 

Treasurer, E. Wnodbnry. 

Directors.— H. W Pitr", S A Gib- 
son, H. F. Weimrr, I D. Bixby, O. M. 
Allen. 

COMMITTEE.S. 

Entertainment and Beliaicnis Meetings -I.D. Bixby, 
Prof. Brooks, E. Olney, Lt. U., G. E. Bardeen, Mrs. Van 
Vleck, Mrs. Haddock. 

Transportation. Excursions find Printing —V. Ran- 
ney, J. T. R. McKay, S. A. Gibson, J. E. Howarrl. D. A. 
Waterman. 

Sanitary Precaution.— O. M. Allen, H F.W< inier, G'O. 
Smiley, G. W. Gay, E Woodbury. 

Hotel. Boats, and Laundry.— I.D . Bixby. G. E. Bar- 
deen, D. B. Merrill. 



Finance. — P. Ranney, O. M. Allen, I D. Bixby. 
Lots, Grounds and But!<hngs—Ti^ W. Page, D. 



B. 



Merrill. O. M. Allen, S. A. Gibson, H. F. Wrimer. 

The articles of association and by-laws are as 
follows: 

We the undersigned, citizens of the United States, and 
of the State of Michigan, desiring to associate ourselves 
together under the provisions of Act number one hun 
dred and twenty-two of the Session Laws of the State of 
Michigan, of eighteen hundred and seventy-seven, do 
hereby certify in writing, that we have, by these presents, 
so associated ourselves together for that purpose ; and we 
do hereby agree that the name and title as said Associa- 
tion shall be "The Charlevoix Summer Resort;" and that 
the particular business and object of such Association 
shall be to own and occupy, for purposes of recreation 
and health, a parcel of ground in the town of Charlevoix, 
county of Charlevoix, and State of Michigan: and we 
agree that the number of Directors to manage such Asso- 
ciation shall be seven, and that the Directors for the first 
year shall be, H. W. Page, Samuel Brooks, J. L. Sebring, 
F. W. Willcox, S. A. Gibson, H. P. Weimer, and Wil- 
lard Morse, Jr. 

Given under our hands and seals, this 2l8t day of May, 
A. D. 1878. 

H.W.Page, [seal.] Freb'k W.Willcox,[seal.] 

Samuel Brooks, [seal.] "W. Morse, Jr. [seal.] 

J. L. Sebeing, [seal. J Benj. F. Lyon, [seal.] 

S. A. Gibson, [seal.] J. B. Wickopp, [seal.] 

H. F. Weimer, [seal ] Kendall Brooks, [seal,] 
BY-LAWS. 

1. The officers of this Association shall be a President, 
a Vice President, a Secretary, and a Treasurer, who, with 



CHARLEVOIX. 



43 



five Directors, not officers, shall constitute the Board of 
Directors, and shall be elected by ballot at the Annual 
Meetings, and each shall continue in office for one year 
from the first day of the following October, or until his 
successor has been elected and assumes the duties of his 
office. 

2. When any vacancy shall occur among the Officers 
or Directors, it shall be competent for the remaining 
members of the Board to fill such vacancy until the next 
annual meeting of the Association. 

3. In case of failure for any reason to elect Officers or 
Directors at the annual meeting, it shall be competent 
for any five members to call a meeting, at which the 
members present maj' proceed to elect Officers and Direc- 
tors for the current year. 

4. The annual meeting shall be held on the grounds of 
the Resort on the third Tuesday of July in each year, and 
on applicalion of any five members, the Secretary shall 
call other meetings, at such time and place as they may 
designate. 

b. The Secretary shall mail a notice of every meeting 
to every member at least seven days before the time of 
such meeting. 

6. Six members shall constitute a quorum for the trans- 
action of business. 

7. Any person having the approval of the Board of 
Directors may become a member of this Association by 
the purchase of one or more certificates of stock, as pro- 
vided in the following by-law: 

8. Certificates of stock, signed by the President and 
Secretary of the Association, may be issued to the mem- 
bers of the Association, or those who may hereafter be- 
come members, each certifirate to be paid for iu the sum 
of ten dollars, and the holder and owner of such certifi- 
cate shall be authorized to cast one vote for each share 
that he may own, in all elections of Officers and Direc- 
tors, and at all meetings of the Association, when any 
proposition is submitted for the purchase of additional 
land, or the sale or mortgaging of land owned by the 
Association ; and such certificate may at any time be 
transferred by the owner, with the written approval of 
a majority of the Board of Directors, to any person, who 
shall have all the privileges of the party to whom the 
same was originally issued, and be subject to payments 
in arrears, and also to like assessments and orders with 
other members of the Association. 

9. Each member of the Association may lease a lot at 
its appraised value, and no member shall hold more than 
one lot, except by a special permit of the Board of Direc- 
tors, and each member leasing a lot shall receive a cer- 
tificate of lease, signed by the President and Secretary of 
the Association, said lease to run during the existence of 
the Association, and be subject to assessments and to 
such restrictions as are imposed by the Articles of Asso- 
ciation and the By-Laws ; out the lease shall be forfeited 
if a building, such as the Directors shall approve, is not 
placed upon the lot within two years from the date of 
the lease. 

10. Certificates of stock shall not be taxed, but lots only 
shall be subject to such assessments as the Association, 
by its By-Laws, or by special vote, may determine. 

11. Every occupied er selected lot shall be subject to an 
annual assessment of not less than two dollars each, pay- 
able on the first Monday in May of each year, and a 
larger assessment shall not be made unless authorized by 
a vote of two-thirds of thi- members of the Association 
present at the annual meeting, or at a meetiug called for 
the purpose; and in no case shall the assessment be 
more than five dollars each in any one year, for the first 
five years of the existence of the Association. 

12. Any holder of a lot failing to piiy any assessment 
for a period of thirty days after notice from the Secretary, 
shall, unless otherwise determined by the Board of Direc- 
tors, forfeit his lease. 

13. The holder of a lot shall be at liberty at any time to 
sell, to a member of the Association, his building and 
other improvements, and his lease, subject to the ap- 
proval of the Board of Directors. 

14. Auy person ownin;' a cottage may rent the same, 
with the approval of the Board of Directors, and the per- I 
son so occupying ii shall be subject to all the rules and I 
regulations of the Association. 

15. No holder of a lot shall deposit any garbage or I 
ofl'ensive refuse upon any part of the grounds, or allow 
any such otlensive matter to accumulate upon his own lot. 

16. If any holder of a lot shall place upon it anything 
which shall be deemed improper or offensive by a major- 
itj' of the Board of Directors, it shall be the duty of the 
Board to remove er cause to be removed, such improper i 




aiawrii.i!iaiiiifflaii«iia3 



or otTensive thing; and if any holder of a lot shall persist 
in making such use of his lot as shall be deemed oflfen- 
sive by a majority of the Board, he shall forfeit his lease 
of the lot. 

17. No intoxicating liquors shall be sold upon the 
premises, and any member of the Association who shall 
be guilty of selling such liquor upon the premises shall 
forfeit his membership in the same. 

18. Any member not holding a lot, but wishing to erect 
a tent for a short time upon an unoccupied lot, may do 
so, with the approval of the Board of Directors, for the 
sum of two dollars for the season, payable in advance; 
hut such occupancv shall cease whenever said lot shall 
have been selected and claimed by a member of the 
Association, and the owner of the tent shall in tliat case 
be adlowed to erect his tent upon another unoccupied 
lot. without additional fee. 

19. The Treasurer shall not be authorized to pay bills 
that may be presented, until they have been approved 
by a majority of the Board of Directors. 

20. Any of the By-Laws of this Association may be 
rescinded or altered, or a new By-Law adopted, by a 
two-thirds vote of tbe members present at any legal 
meeting. 



44 



CHARLEVOIX. 



A remittance to the secretary for one or more 
shares of stock at SIO each secures a member- 
ship in this association which entitles the holder 
to all its advantages as provided in the by-laws: 




Any member may choose a lot, securing a lease 
thereof, by paying to the Secretary or Treasurer 
its appraised value (twenty dollars and upwards, 
according to location) . The lease continues 
good during the existence of the Association, 
subject, however, to forfeiture if a cottage, ap- 
proved by the Directors, be not erected within 
IV c yesis. Subject, also, to By-Laws and Regu- 



lations, including an annual assessment to meet 
Association taxes and minor expenses . Assess- 
ments are made against lot-holders only, and are 
limited to tive dollars as a maximum during the 
first five years' existence of the Association. 

The funds received from stock certificates and 
lots, together with profits accuring from hotel, 
boats, etc., are all expended in the purchase of 
land and in improvements The twenty-five 
acres upon which the Association located in 1878 
was a gift from the people of Charlevoix. In 
view of this fact and the liberal amount received 
from choice of lots, every certificate of stock rep- 
resents an ownership in land and improvements, 
excluding cottages, of more than three times its 
face value. 

Qnpio+u '^^® society at this resort is excel- 
OUtmiy. lent. Under the rules of the as- 
sociation it cannot be otherwise. Objectionable 
families are excluded and all immoral practices 
are prohibited. The design from the first was to 
bring together families of a high moral charac- 
ter, and to maintain such a mode of life that no 
others would be attracted to the place. Thus far 
the effort in this direction has been eminently 
successful. Congenial spirits united to found 
the resort, and the families that have since joined 
them have added much to the attractions of its 
society . Every season presents a growing com- 
munity of families combined in delightful inter- 
course. The association is founded on strictly 
non-denominational principles, as in villages or 
cities elsewhere, the persons who reside here dur- 
ing the summer months belong to all the various 
religious denominations . 

Chicagro Summer Resort. On the up- 
per side of the channel, which connects Round 
and Pine Lakes, is located the Chicago Summer 
Resort. Of the origin of this resort the Chicago 
Evening Journal, about a year ago, had the fol- 
lowing to say 

"During the past summer a company of Chicago 
gentlemen, desirous of taking a breathing spell during 
the hot July and August days, visited Mackinac, Petos- 
key and Charlevoix. At the latter place they stayed 
several days, charmed by its surroun dings, its cool 
nights, the pleasant, breezy days,the pure air, the absence 
of the dust and heat of the city, all oi which combined to 
make their stay very pleasant. One of the gentlemen, 
liking the place so well, secured a piece of land intending 
it for a summer residence lot. The three other gentle- 
men, meeting some time after, and comparing notes and 
opinions regarding Charlevoix, agreed to purchase a 
large tract of land and set it apart for a summer resort. 
This has been done, and a stock company formed, a 
charter obtained and enrolled under our State laws as 
the Chicago Summer Resort Company. Their capital 
stock has been placed at $10 000 in shares of 8100 each, 
subject to call. The land has been paid for and title se- 
cured. It is the intention of the company to spare no 
pains or expense to make this place very attractive to 
summer visitors. They have a fine location, high and 
dry. between two lakes, fronting both ot them. 

The near proximity of these resorts can but 
add to the attractiveness of both. 
Plima'fo These resorts share in all the cli- 
U 1 1 m ale . matic advantages of northern Michi- 
gan. The cool refreshing breezes from the lakes 
are most invigorating. Little or nothing is 
known of summer's sultry heat, or of the close 
muggy air of dog days, so debilitating in most 
places. The nights are cool and so much con- 
ducive to "Balmy sleep, tired nature's sweet 
restorer." 



I 



CHARLEVOIX 



Bat this locality enjoys some 
advantages of climate peculiar to 
itself. Most summer resorts, 
being situated on the shores of 
the lake with only the land be- 
hind them, are as often subject 
to land as to lake breezes and 
therefore do not escape sultry 
days. This is not the case how 
ever here, situated between Lake 
Michigan and Fine Lake with 
the depression of land through 
which Pine River runs, forming 
a natural air channel, these re- 
sorts are never without a fresh 
breeze from one lake or the 
other. The cooler breezes from 
Lake Michigan blow during the 
day time, when most needed. 
These breezes are always puri- 
fied as well as cooled by contact 
with large bodies of water. The 
situation is not unlike that of the 
famed Newport, lying between 
the Atlantic and Narragansett 
Bay. There are no low or 
marshy lands in the region to 
taint the air with miasma and 
breed annoying musqnitoes. A 
more fortunate combination of 
those circumstances which tend 
to make a summer resort de- 
sirable can scarcely be imagined. Those who 
have passed one or more summers in this locality 
recuperating their strength in its salubrious 
climate and thus securing a new lease of life are 
enthusiastic in its praise . 

Rath inn Excellent advantages for bathing 
D dining. are at hand. Pine Lake with its 
crystal waters, forming the eastei'n boundary of 
the grounds, is in the immediate vicinity of all 
the cottages. On its shores bathing houses have 
been erected for the accommodation of those 
who desire to use them The gradual sloping of 
the beach into the lake makes it safe for children 
to indulge in this delightful hot weather exercise. 
Those who prefer the more exciting sport of surf 
bathing can be accommodated by walking or row- 
ing a mile to the shore of Lake Michis;an. 
p__xj Few localities enjoy such excel- 

DOdling. i^iit facilities for buating. Through 
the summer Pine Lake is usually as placid as a 
river, while Round Lake, lying like a sparkling 
gem, between the resort and the village, and pro- 
tected from winds by the encircling hills is always 
safe for small row boats. At all hours of the 
day the trim boats of the resort Hcets may be ' 
seen gliding swiftly over the silvery bosom of 
these lakes, of tenest propelled by oars in the hands | 
of boys and girls who thus mingle the most | 
healthful exercise with romantic enjoyment. ; 
Those who crave the more thrilling sport of 
yachting may take a fifteen-mile sail up Pine 
Lake, or turning their prow westward, glide out , 
of the harbor into Lake Michigan's broad ex- 
panse, and thus dance over the waves along the | 




JOBDAN KIVER. 

wooded shore, or push out into the lake tmtil the 
place of starting has dropped behind the horizon, 
thus securing all the effects of a sail in mid 
ocean. 

Fichinn ^^^ whole Charlevoix region is 
ridlllliy. famous for its excellent fishing 
grounds. Isaac Walton himself would have 
reveled in his favorite sport on the lakes and 
along the rivers and .streams that are found in 
this locality. In their season, lake trout, black 
bass, pickerel, perch, and herring abound in the 
lakes, while the gamy speckled trout, the fisher- 
man's chief delight, make the cold waters of the 
Jordan and Boyne Rivers as well as the several 
smaller tributaries uf Pine Lake, their favorite 
haunts. No rivers in the lower peninsula are so 
famous for their choice trout as the Jordan and 
Boyne. Sportsmen come hundreds of miles 
every year to enjoy the rapture of capturing 
these lively beauties, and even though they may 
fail to come in the season for a great catch, so 
enchanting is the scenery along the rivers, so in- 
vigorating is the air of this northern climate, 
and so novel the experience of camp life, while 
pursuing their piscatorial sports, that none re- 
turn without feeling richly repaid for their trip. 
Those who spend the season at these resorts, 
have the advantage, however, of sportsmen, who 
come to try their pastimes for a few days only, 
as they are enabled to choose the best days in 
which to gratify their angling tastes. 

The following graphic description of a trip up 
the Jordan will prove interesting to our readers : 



46 



CHARLEVOIX. 



•' 'The party who went up the Jordan yesterday, having 
entirely exhaused their stock of adjectives, oflFer a ten dol- 
lar chrome to any one who will invent a new one which 
will adequately express their admiration.' 

"So ran the notice posted this morning in the hall of 
the Resort Hotel. Ever since we came here people have 
been telling us we must see the most celebrated trout 
stream of these regions, and we have replied, with easy 
indifference, that we would see about it, and finally only 
decided on the trip in hap-hazard fashion. 

"Forgive us, beautiful Jordan! we came, we saw, and 
we were conquered. We shall never speak of you with 
indifference again. We rose early, and aftera somewhat 
hurried breakfast, hastened to the dock. Up comes the 
little steamer Nellie Booth, and we step aboard, the cap- 
tain swings up his hat, the people shout, and we are off. 
Before us lies beautiful Pine Lake, all dimpled and smil- 
ing in the early sunlight, while we sit on the deck in the 
fresh morning air, admiring the glories of nature, and 
drawing in new life with every breath. 

"About two miles from Charlevoix the steamer turned 
suddenly behind a point, and entered that part of the 
lake known as the South Arm. This is about sixteen 
miles long and from one to two wide so that it some- 
what resembles a broad river. Its scenery is varied and 
rich, but so entirely different from the main lake that it 
seems like a dit^tinct sheet of water. The Jordan comes 
in at the very head of the arm, and we reached it about 
half-past eight. Our boat, which had been towed behiud 
the steamer, was brought round, and, stepping over the 
side, we were soon safely seated— two ladies and a gen- 
tleman, besides the guide who was to take us safely up 
the river, with its rapid current, its snags and eddies. In 
a few moments we had reached it and he was pulling 
with a long, quiet stroke against the stream. 

"We had been fortunate in the day, its incidents and 
our company; we were not less so in our guide. 
Parrish was a 'character.' He came early to that part of 
the country — though he is now at Charlevoix — and told 
us he had poled on the river for seventeen years, which 
we could well believe, for there was not a tree nor a snag, 
nor a ferny bank, nor a trout pool, but what seemed to 
him an old familiar friend. What a quaint forest flavor 
there was to all his stories; of how the Jordan was named 
by a good old Methodist. Amos Williams, who was one 
of the earliest settlers, and how he built a large bark canoe 
on the banks of the stream, and when he launched it 
called it the 'Good Ship Zion;' of the early settlers and 
their loneliness ; of how these waters once swarmed with 
grayling, called by the natives 'river fish;' of the deer 
that came down the runways to drink, and with beautiful 
lifted head and frightened dark eyes are sometimes 
seen by excursionists coming suddenly round a curve; of 
wonderful catches of fish, and head-first tumbles of un- 
lucky sportsmen into the icy pools. All this with homely 
simplicity, but brightened bi' a quick appreciation and a 
certain sense of the fitness of thing.s. 

"Alter about a mile of rowing, the low wet banks are 
left behind, the scene grows wilder, and tangled, un- 
broken forests extend to the very water's edge. The 
rush of the river now becomes stronger, and, looking 
down through its crystal clearness, you see the golden- 
sanded shallows, the black logs, the swayins; velvety- 
green moss fit for a Naiad's bower, and the deep pools 
in which a silver flash now and again shows where the 
trout are lying. Dipping over tne side, we lound the 
water so icy-cold that we could bear contact but a mo- 
ment; and now we wished to drink of it, but found our 
guide had forgotten his cup. Just then we saw, under 
overhanging branches, an anchored boat, and a tent 
gleamiutr wnite through the trees. Pushing on shore to 
borrow a cup, we entered into conversation with the 
campers, who proved to be Southerners, flying from the 



summer heats and the yellow fever. The men were absent 
fishing, and a sun-burned little maiden, blowing soap 
bubbles, a woman cooking the dinner, and a grave dog, 
playing guardian, were the only occupants. 

"How we drank of the delicious water; how many 
times that day one of the party played Hebe, and filled 
up the nectar of the gods for my lady Venus and my lord 
Jupiter I 

After two miles of rowing, the current becomes so swift 
that the oars can no longer be used, and now begins the 
most delightful part of the trip. Parrish stands erect in 
the stern of the boat, spare and gray-haired, but sinewy 
and supple withal; in his hands he holds a long pole, 
tipped with iron, which he strikes now on the bottom, 
now against a log, still preserving his steady, unswayed 
attitude. Without a splash, without ajar, the boat moves 
up the rapids as if by magic. No sound breaks the deep 
stillness, save Nature's own— the clear call of an unseen 
bird, the cool splash and ripple of the stream, a king^ 
fisher flapping heavily from bank to bank, little breaths 
of wind murmuring through the tops of the tall hemlocks 
and white cedars as if they were whispering about these 
strange intruders on their solitudes. 

"Half reclining on the bottom of the boat, crushing 
out the fragrance from the hemlock boughs strewn be- 
neath you, you see, as you round each curve, fresher, 
wilder beauties opening on either hand. .Sometimes the 
mighty hemlocks almost meet above your head, some- 
times your path seems utterly choked up with water 
logged timber and nprooted trees, tiM you glide suddenly 
through some narrow channel; often you bend low to 
pass under a squirrel bridge— a tall cedar fallen from bank 
to bank. 

"The prevailing tint of these woods is dark, but it 
serves as a strong background for the brighter colors. 
Vivid green moss is everywhere, and out oi it grows all 
manner of plumy grasses and wandering vines. The 
golden rod is just beginning to enrich the wilderness 
with its prodigal wealth ; and here and there that torch 
of the woods— the cardinal flower — burns its red flame to 
lightits shadowy nook. Many delicate aud,to us, strange 
varieties of fern dipped their long fronds in the water 'on 
the skirts of the forest, like fringe upon a petticoat,' as 
the merry Rosalind hath it. 

"We had now nearly reached our destination, for 
though it is possible to ascend the stream for thirteen 
miles, it is not possible to do so in one day, and we were 
to content ourselves with a six-mile trip. In that short 
distance the river rises a hundred feet: thirty feet in this 
last mile. 

"On reaching our landing place, we walked for a quar- 
ter of a mile on a beautiful wood path, and suddenly 
came out into a clearing,in the midst of which is the well- 
known Webster's , a large log tavern, where we found a 
comfortable resting place and a good dinner. After an 
hour's rest and a ramble in the woods, we returned to 
the boat and were soon shooting down the current; in- 
deed, so rapid was our course, that we made frequent 
stops, loth to lose the charm of that wild beauty. Yet, in 
truth, we can never lose it. To the kind thought that 
planned that day's excursion, we owe a whole gallery 
full of pictures that will have the advantage of never be- 
ing dimmed by time. 

"We reached the steamer just in time to go aboard, and 
after a quiet ride over the lake, the sunset and our party 
reached Charlevoix together, both fiery red in the face 
from a long day upon the water. What the sportsman 
finds in the Jordan 1 no not knew. We found in it 
wonderful beauty, for we sought those woods simply as 
the outlawed duke and his forest rangers sought the 
wilds of Aiden— 'to fleet the time carelessly, as they did 
in the golden world.' " 




THE GRAND TRAVERSE REGION, 




If HE Grand Trav- 
erse Region 
has always 
been an inter- 
eating locality. For 
several centuries it 
was the favorite re- 
sort of the Indians. 
The supply of game was 
always good. Fish existed 
in great abundance The 
climate was mild for the 
latitude, and the soil, as 
now, very productive. At 
an early period the Jesu- 
its established missions 
at various points around 
the bay. These missions 
were for a time flourish- 
ing. Both apple and 
peach trees were planted 
by the missionaries and 
are still found growing 
wild in some localities. 

The whole Grand Trav- 
erse Region is one im- 
m e n s e summer resort. 
Grand Traverse Bay is 
one of the finest sheets of 
water in the world. Its 
shores are heavily fringed 
with evergreens, which 
are reflected in the clear 
bright water with a witch- 
ery that is charming to 
behold. The water of the 
bay and of all the streams 
which flow into it is re- 
markably pure and cold. 
In the bay a piece of 
crockery or any white sub- 
stance can be distinctly 
seen at a depth of 60 feet 
or more. The head of 
the bay at Traverse City 
is in the form of a semi- 
circle. From this point 
northward, 'AO miles dis- 
tant, or as far as the eye 

can reach, there is presented an everchanging productive. This may seem strange to the 
panorama of beauty. The highlands skirting the dwellers in more southerly climes, who have been 
bay, and the islands resting upon its bosom, are accustomed to think of Northern Michigan as a 
clothed with the greenest of forests, or under the \ "barren inhospitable waste.'" Apples, peaches, 
care of industrious husbandmen and vine-dress- pears, grapes and other fruits are raised here ii 

ers, abound in weU tilled fields and flourishing '■ "^^—i '— ' -'" "'—' —-"-"* ^^oUf^ 

vineyards. 

The Grand Traverse region is wonderfully 




great abundance and of very excellent quality. 
The products of the Grand Traverse Gardens 
took the second prize at the Convention of the 



48 



GRAND TRAVERSE REGION. 



winter time in this section. This 
is owing to the fact that the snow 
falls early and remains until 
spring. Potatoes may be left in 
the ground all winter and come 
out in the spring as fresh and 
plump as though dug in the fall. 
As the ground does not freeze, less 
time is required for vegetation to 
start in the spring than in localities 
much further south. The lake 
winds also exercise a very bene- 
ficial influence over this region. 
The waters of Lake Michigan cool 
the winds of summer, because 
these waters are cooler than the 
atmosphere. On the other hand, 
they warm the winds of winter, 
because they are warmer than the 
atmosphere. The winds therefore 
guard this region against the ex- 
tremes both of heat and cold . 

Traverse City. S:,^1S 

of interest in this region is Trav- 
erse City, located at the head of 
the west arm of the bay. The 
village, city only in name, contains 
a population of about 2,000 souls. 
Being one of the oldest towns in 
this section it has lost much of the 
New York Pomological Society in 1874, and the 1 backwoods appearance that characterizes new 
display from this region at the Centennial in towns generally. The mammoth establishment 
1876 attracted universal attention and admiration I of Hannah Lay & Co., is located here. This 
and secured the first prize in the Michigan di- company sells over half a million dollars worth of 
vision. Those who are interested in fruit should goods per year. The sportsman and tourist find 
be sure to visit the peninsula in Traverse Bay, I unusual attractions at this place . The broad 
also the peninsula between the bay and Lake expanse of bay, with its clear water, the clean 
Michigan, as both are highly favored regions and gravel streets and well-kept sidewalks, the com- 
will richly repay the visitor for the time and ex- fortable, homelike dwellings and substantial bus- 
pense involved. iness blocks, are pleasing to residents and stran- 

Various conditions combine to make this sec- gers alike. The bay affords the rare sport of 
tion of the state productive. Excepting in some | trolling, and the still rarer sport of deep water 
localities, 
in the im 



1 




TKAVEKSE CITY. 




NOKTHPOBT HABBOK AND DOCK. 



UEAND TRAVERSE REGION. 



49 



fishing for Mackinaw trout The inland lakes in 
the vicinity are numerous, and are well stocked 
with black and rock bass, pickerel, muskalonge, 
&c., &c. The Boardman Kiver, which empties 
into the bay at this point, is one of the finest 
trout streams in Northern Michigan The Man- 
istee, the famous grayling stream, is easy acces- 
sible, while the whole country is marked with 
brooks and smaller streams, every one of which 
appears to be the native home of the speckled 
trout. Clear Lake, Long Lake, Bass Lake, Carp 
Lake, Betsie Lake, Boardman Lake and a host of 
smaller lakes, are from one to twelve miles dis- 
tant. 

Leelenaw County. fr„':T:d°°°£e« 

Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. For 
the tourist it has many attractions. Its numer- 
ous streams are plentifully supplied with speckled 
trout, and its lakes with other varieties of fish. 
Quiet and beautiful little towns dot the shores 
both of the bay and the lake. Among these 
Sutton s Bay and Northport are on the bay. 
N nrfhnnrt ^^ * very quiet town about 25 
11 U I III pun miles northwest from Traverse 
City. It is located on a charming little bayou 
which affords the finest pleasure sailing in ihe 
world. The town knows nothing of fashion or 
dissipation. Abundance of sweei milk and good 
butter, white fish, trout, bass and pickerel; fresh 
berries, fowl mutton, &c., &c , are placed before 
the tourist and he has nothing to do but to eat 
and grow fat. 

A drive of about two miles to the westward 
from Northport, brings the tourist to a high 
bluff on the shore of Lake Michigan, from 
whence he sees the Manitou, Fox and Beaver Is- 
lands, while far away southward rises that singu- 
lar white peak, known to sailors as sleeping 
Bear point. The Beaver Islands are famous in 
history as the home of King Strang and his Mor- 
mon followers. An enthusiastic admirer of Lee- 
lenaw county indulges in the following: 

"Come hither all ye that hunger and thirst 
after a good night's sleep and vour desire shall 
be gratified, your nerves shall have relaxation, 
and your brains recuperation. Your back bones 
shall get as flexible as willow switches and as 
springy as grasshoppers legs ; your cheeks shall 
get as plump as pomegranites and your skin the 
color of fresh tanned leather." 

FlU RaniHc ^" ^^^ ®"*'*' ^^^ '^^ Grand 
CIIV ncipiUd. Traverse Bay, some 18 miles 

distant from Traverse City, is located the enter- 
prising little town of Elk Rapids This town 
contains several brick store buildings, a number 
of handsome residences, neat and tasty churches, 
Ac., &c. Its patron saints, Messrs. Dexter and 
Noble, own the large furnaces mills, stores, etc . 
&c., situated here. They also own a number of 
large vessels which are engaged in carrying the 
immense products of their furnaces and mills to 
outside markets. The fishing privileges of this 
neighborhood are exceedingly fine. Brook trout 
of large size have been taken from the waters of 
the lake from the dock in the village. Bass 
Lake, di.stant one mile, is full of bass and pick 




erel. Yuba Creek, emptying into the bay six 
miles toward Traverse City is a very fine trout 
stream Within a distance of seven miles from 
Elk liapids down Elk Lake, three streams empty 
into the lake, all excellent trout streams. 

On the narrow peninsula or 
cape which bisects Grand 
Traverse Bay Old Mission is located. This is a 
very small and unimportant town, yet is very 
beautifully located and is much frequented in 
summer time by tourists. 



Old Mission. 



BANKING HOUSE 



DAVID PRESTON & CO. 



[Established May, 1852.] 



The accounts of Banks and Bankers selicited. 

We deal in U. S. Bonds, State, County, Town, 
City snd School Bonds. 

Choice Commercial Paper. 

Land Warrants and Scrip. 

Buy first class City or Farm Mortgages and 
transact a general Banking business 



N. S. RAND. 



1, II KAN'D. 




Nos. 14 and 16 LABNED STREET EAST, 
DETROIT, . - - MICHIGAN. 



OLD and NEW MACKINAC 

By J, A. TAN FLEET, 

266 Woodward Avenue, DETBOIT, MICH. 

This is a book of 175 pages, neatly bound in cloth and 
sold at the low price of $1.00. It contains a reliable and 
exhaustive history of the Mackinaw country from the date 
of its earliest exploration down to the present. Bent by 
the author, postpaid on receipt of price. 




who desire to enter a Business CoUege.let us suggest that 
yon visit ditterent schools, or at least inform yourselves 
as to their relative merits. The 

Grand Rapids Business Gollegre 

and PRACTICAL TRAINING SCHOOL, will pay ex- 
penses from your homes and return, if you do not find 
its surroundings and advantages 90 per cent, ahead of 
any other in the Northwest. CaU and see, or enclose 
stamp for College Journal. 







Grand Rapids, Mich. 



iliMetlleBest 

Because the Best is 

Always the Cheapest. 

TheLEVKBis now in its fifth year. It vpas started 
over the protest of many ot the warmest friends of its 
founder. Without any capital but "erit" and in spite of 
an avalanche of distrust caused by the frequent failures 
of temperance papers it has steadily won its way by its 
r.idical, clean-cut utterances on all the moral questions 
of the day until it now stands among the rery firi^t in 
point of circulations and influence- in the state. Its 
proprietors are looking forward to some radical im- 
provements during the coming fall. 

For commendations, terms, etc. etc., see second page 
of cover. 

J. A.VAN FLEET, M. A., Editor, 

C. H. NOLL, Publisher. 



VanPleet & Noll, 

PROPRIETORS. 

26(i Woodward Avenue, 
DETROIT, - - MICH. 



The Detroit. Mackinac & Marquette R. R. 

Is now completed from Marquette to St. Ignace, on the Straits of Mackinac. And offers for sale 

1,300,000 Acres of Choice Farmine: & Timbered Lands in the 
Upper Peninsula of Michigan. 

These Lands arc situated in the CouiitipH of Chippewa, Mackinac, Schoolcraft and Marquette, and embrace 
many thousand acres of the best A^jricultural Lands in the State of Michigan, and are on th(! same as^ricultural belt 
as the famed lands of Northern Wisconsin, Minnesota and E>akota, on the Northern I'acilic Railroad, and not less 
than seven hundred miles nearer to the markets of the seaboard. This fact alone assuring a Handsome Protit in 
the one item of Transportation. All correspondence relating to the land department should be addressed to 

W. O. STRONG, Land Commissioner, 

39 IVewbcrry &. ITIcniillaii Biiildiug^, Detroit, ITIicli. 

LAND BOARD : Fbanois Palms. John s. Newbebry, Fbed'k E, Dbiggs. 



Qi 



o W^ 



m m CAN BE mm 

WITHOUT THE USE OF KNIFE, CAU- 
STICS, OR LOSS OF BLOOD. 

Abundant city referencesof cures furnished at oflSce. Delays 
are Dangerous. Call or write at once. Consultation Free. 
r>R, DeCOTJ, 
254 WOODWARD AVENUE, • • DETROIT, MICH. 



T«i H'hoin it M«f Conr.Hrii. I am personally acquainted with Dr. Deijou, have seen and talked with those whom 
he has cured and am fully satisfied that he is in every way an honorable man and that his method of treatment is a 
decided success. J. A. V4N FLKKT. Kditor Lever. 



SOMETHING NEW. 



pme4 



$10. g 




Every Family its own Physician 

ELLIS' Avoidable Causes of Disease is one of the best 
works on Hygiene and Laws of health ever published. 
Price $2 . 

ELLIS' Family Guide and Information for everybody, 
(244 pages) discusses Life, Death, Disease, Heredity, Mar- 
riage, Malaria, Stimulants, Tobacco, Quackery. &c., <fcc. 
Price in plain cover only 50 cents. 
Address, 

DR. E. R. ELLIS, 

49 Roland St , Detroit. 



THE HERA.LD 

Printing & Publishing 

HOUSE. 

206 Woodward Avenue, 
DETROIT, - - - MICHIGAN. 



EVERY DESCRIPTION OP 

Job Printing, 

In the Best Style and at Reason- 
able Rates. 



Esthnatea for Binding and 
JPrinting Furniaheil on Aj^pli- 
cation. 

Address as above. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



THE "FISHING LINE." 



TAKE THE 




RAILROAD. 



The only route to the Trout, 
Grayling and Black Bass 
Fisheries, and the Fa- 
mous Su^nmer Health 
andGanieltesorts 
and Lakes of 

Northern Michigan. 

The Waters of the Grand Traverse region and 
the Michigan Nortli Woods are unsurpassed, if equaled, 
in the abundance and great variety offish contained. 

Brook Trout abound in the streams, and the famous 
American Grayling is found only in these waters. 

The Trout Season begins May Ist and ends September 
1st. The Grayling eea.son opens June 1st and ends 
November Ist. 

Black Bass, Pike, Pickerel and Muskalonge also 
abound in lar^e numbers in the many lakes and lakelets 
of this territory The sportsman can readily send tro- 
phies of his skill to his iricnds or "Club" at home, as ice 
for packing flsh can be had at nearly all points. 

Take Your Family with You. The scenery of the 
North Woods and Lakes is very beautiful. The air is 
pure, dry and bracing. 

The climate is peculiarly beneficial to those suffering 
with Hav-Fevcr and Asthmatic Affections. 

New Hotels with all mofliTii improvements, are being 
erected atid will bi; ready for the season of 1882, as well 
as many cxtens-ive additions to the older ones, which will 
guarantee ample Accommodations for all. 

The e.\tensi.in of this line from Petoskey to Mackinac 
is under contract, to be finished by June 1, lbs2, after 
which time there will be daily trains to Mackinac, s^t. 
Ignace, Marquett", L'Aiise, Negaunee, etc., formine the 
^lo^t direct route from i iniiinniti, Louisville, Iijdiana- 
polis, Columbus, Dayton, Pittsburgh and all Southern, 
Southeustirn and Southwestern Points. 

During the season Round Tiip Excursion Tickets will 
be sold at Low Kates.and attraLtive train facilities ottered 
to Tourists and Spiirtsmen. 

Dogs, Guns and Fishing Tackle carried Free at Own- 
er's Kisk. It is our aim to make Sportmeu feel '-At 
Home-' on tbis runt''. Fur Tourist Guide, a handsomely 
illuttrated book of itiu pages, sent free. Time Cards, Fold- 
era and further iiiformatiun, audress 

A. B. LEET, 

Gen'l Pass'r >*gent, Grand Eapids, Mich. 



Detroit, La 




016 090 623 6 # 



THE DIRECT AND POPULAR BOUTE 

Between the 

EAST and SOUTH 

To the Celebrated Fishing and Hunting Grounds 
and the Pleasure Kesorts of 



PULLMAN-8 PAJ.ACE SLEEPING 

CARS ' 

Run on Night Express trains between I)etroit 
Fetos.key and Mackinaw without change. 

For Comjort, Safety and Speed this Line 
is Unsurpassed 

J.B. MULLIKEN, W A. CARPENTER, 

Gen'l Manager. Gen 1 Pas^ Agent. 

iJ^^General Offices Detroit, Mich. 



Tlie Paper on which this 
Book is printetl was manufac- 
tured for us by the Kalamazoo 
Paper Co., Kalamazoo, Iflich. 



TRAVERSE BAY HOTEL, 

XORTHPORT, MICH. 

WillidTn H. Franklin, (Proprietor. 

Fine PI .ce for Boating and Fishing 

This is one of the mo^t pleasant i)lace8 in Noithcrn 
Jlichigan in which to board during the Suinmcr inoi.ths. 



This House has the advantage of a lake hrce/.c by any 
direction of the wind Is 4.i miles west of f'et<>sk(^y; 28 
miles north of Travi-rse lity ; 3 lU miles north of v hicago, 
and within easy reach of the Grand Kapids and Indiana 
R.dlroad by 

St'rs "T. S. Taston" and "City of (Jrand Eapids.'' 

Is also reached Irom Chicago. Detruit and Butl'aio by 
the Western Transportation Line. 



